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The problem is sustained cornering or braking...if the oil is at the lower range of the dipstick, you can uncover the pick-up. Not good...+1 quart is "insurance" and is no where near the crank when you actually measure pan capacity.

Looks nice ;)

First, do a re-torque on your head bolts. If they are stock head bolts and are at the stock torque...take them up to 72-75 ft/lbs in two passes using the TRSM torque pattern. Then, take your thermostat out, put it in a pan of boiling water and see if it opens. You need to use a Toyota or a...

Just got my Shaftmasters aluminum single piece driveshaft installed for the A340E tranny...it is also the first one made for the auto tranny. Shaftmasters does excellent work...it's a very high quality aluminum driveshaft. It weighs 11.5 lbs...much lighter than the stock 32 lbs. As you can...

Read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59865 It's titled ARP Head Studs, but I talk about replacing the HG.

Got a chuckle out of that myself...good one JJ :biglaugh: Yep...time for new plug wires!

It's going to depend on the condition of the block, but if you are not getting the block decked, I would use a Toyota HG. Give Champion Toyota a call and order the complete head gasket kit. In addition to the HG, it has all the gaskets/seals you will need...manifolds, cam seals, valve seals...

Are you having the head decked? MHG's require a very smooth surface...the HKS is around 25-30 RA (roughness average). It is also VERY important the block/head surfaces are flat...the TSRM has the allowance. The RA spec for a MHG also applies to the block...you might get away with it...

I would use studs ;)

^^^ To expand on this, there is not the torsional "twist" on studs you get on a bolt shaft when torquing it down. Again, more accurate torque readings. Studs are superior to bolts in both clamping force and accurate torque. You can use bolts with no problem, but the point of studs is not to...

1) You've interpreted the info correctly...you do not want to run a 20W-50. Forged pistons have nothing to do with it...your mechanic is rationalizing a myth. If you have not read this (all of it)...please do. It will tell you why your mechanic is wrong: http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/...

Actually all of your wear metals are on the high side. Lead, copper, and tin indicate bearing wear...all of your levels in these metals are pushing the max for what you want to see. Chromium is from the rings...iron is from the cylinder walls, cam shaft, crank, and valves. Aluminum is from...

Nope...not true. But you will have to put the studs in after you place the head on the block and use the pilot pins to align the block/MHG/head...or, you can put a couple of studs in along the side to make it easier to align. Don't put studs in the rear holes or you will have trouble getting...

Here's some light reading for ya ;) http://www.dieseldoctor.com/messageboard/data/229.html http://www.stockcarracing.com/howto/scrp_0803_calibrating_a_torque_wrench/index.html These guys do calibration...costs $20-35 depending on the torque range of the wrench...

#2...might want to make sure the torque wrench is calibrated ;)

They told ya wrong JAV, there is a bypass valve on the 51515R...it's set at 8-11 psi. It flows 28 GPM; I highly doubt you can exceed that even at 120 psi due to the tubing size feeding the filter head from the pump. Here's the additional details on the filter...

I'll demo: "I looked at the Power Steering system and it appears the return flow to the reservoir is from the line to the top port. Thinking about the system flow, it makes sense the feed to the pump is on the bottom of the reservoir. Is my logic on this sound? Anything I can miss here if...

Look...Jet's not being an ass, he's pointing out exactly how the question comes across. Why do you think I laughed at it? Or am I an ass too? Why not instead post how you think it works and ask for a confirmation and/or any detail you might have missed. The way you put it displays a total...

Exactly...well said ;)

^^^ LOL! ;)