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If you want a shine on the IC pipe, finish w/ Blue Magic metal polish.

Read a bit closer...that's 1/2 critical speed ;) It's only a problem if a harmonic vibration develops at that speed...it's more an irritation than anything else. But, over time *and* if that speed is maintained *and* the vibration is present, it can cause metal fatigue in the shaft....we're...

Yes it would...code 52 causes the timing to retard.

MMC = Metal Matrix Composite http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_matrix_composite

Yep...a small difference in critical speed rpm due to the extra 1" in tube length for an R154 tranny. The one piece I have now has a vibration at 60-70 mph...not much, but is noticeable. I suspect the new shaft (due in today via UPS) will produce the same results as you got Nick ;)

Depends on it's location...near the flame front (in the stock bung), will reduce it's life.

Jay - I ran the calculations for a single piece shaft based on Shaft Master's specs for an A340: Material - 6161-T6 Tube OD - 3.00" Tube Wall Thickness - 0.125" Tube Length - 39" Tube Weight - 4.66 lbs (calculator said 4.31 lbs) Modulus of Elasticity - 10.0 Density - 0.098 Poly Foam...

^^^ Uhhhh...oil in the spark plug wells? Don't think that would be possible :3d_frown:

The stock stud thread is M10x1.25...the stud is 47mm long. Threaded 15mm on the manifold side, 17mm on the turbo flange side.

^^^ At least so far they are ;) (mine lasted almost a year before the front one blew)

Damn! CRS is acting up again ;)

^^^ Yep...pricey little devils ;) http://www.titanmotorsports.com/timobimacafo1.html

Your bird has left it's cage ;) (it's actually the coolant resv low light)

In that case, sounds like you've jumped a tooth on the timing belt.

What you DON'T want to do is run the same oil after a BHG...Suprabones has the right idea. To rid the oil system of coolant, just change it, run for 20-30 miles and change again. Head down to Walmart, grab some SuperTech 5W-30 and SuperTech filter for the flush....then change to the oil of...

29 in/lbs iirc...NOT ft/lbs!

Stainless hex cap heads look a lot better ;) And the threads are M6x1.0, 27mm long (30mm will work)...not 10mm.

Yeah...just so long one thing is understood..."budget" does not equal "cheap".

Yep...looks a lot like this one. And I can tell ya for a fact the sensor is 3/8" NPT. Of course a quick cruise to the hardware store and you can see for yourself ;) And just in case you're thinking about tapping the pipe directly...won't seal properly unless you got a least a 1/4"...

Use Toyota freeze plugs when you replace them...the plugs are metric. If you use aftermarket (like Dorman), the plugs are 5 thou smaller in diameter. I had one blow for this exact reason and they are a real pain to replace with the motor in the car. Also, make sure the plugs are fully...