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No...and plug the vac line leading to it.

Head down to the hardware store and find a pipe adapter that fits...pretty sure the GM IAT is 3/8" NPT. Get a 1/2" to 3/8" NPT reducer and use it as a weld bung...put the 1/2" threads inside the pipe and weld around the outside. Or, just buy a weld bung that fits the sensor.

Pretty sure they are the same...if it's used though, you may end up with the same problem you are replacing it for ;)

Actually Chris was correct above...80 ft/lbs w/ moly for studs. The most recent ARP stud spec sheet:

That's the only good use I can think of for a Fram ;) Jet - LOL...gotta love "old school" :biglaugh:

Yep - Timing is advanced when coolant temps are 0-20 deg C...the ECU retards timing when coolant temps are above ~100 deg C. There's several others (besides the KS), but all apply to idle corrections iirc.

^^^ :thefinger

Frank - the head bolt threads are indeed M12x1.25...I just measured one to be certain. If your bolts did not come with a spec sheet, it was an oversight...ARP usually includes a spec sheet with their hardware. Here is the latest one for the bolts...look at Note B for aluminum heads, it...

Indeed it is...it's the feed to the turbo ;) Get rid of the Fram filter!

Simple things 1st :biglaugh: Yep...it's called a Cold Start Injector (CSI). It will not cause this problem...even if unplugged.

Have your battery checked.

Ahhh...thanks for that Justin. I'm considering getting one of these. Is the wastegate still in the same place as the pic?

That manifold requires relocation of the charcoal canister to install an external wastegate...not a big deal. I'm also pretty sure you can't use the stock oil return on the block...the manifold tubing is in the way. Welding a -10 AN bung on the pan will fix that.

Not a great pic, but you get the idea. Note there are no raised ridges on the sides/aft of the vent.

I made my own ;) Cut the outline with a cutoff wheel...carefully bend it down...weld two side pieces...a little bondo and wire mesh later, you have vents. For these to be functional, you have to cut the top headlight support the width of the vent...then have to fab a bracket to connect...

Yeah...still do Oliver. Good to see you around again ;) I still owe you a J-tube too!

Check the 100 amp alt fuse in the engine bay box.

:rofl: And don't use a spray sealer!

<jdub's best southern drawl> If you want it to move...WD40, if you don't want it to move...Duct Tape! :biglaugh:

^^^ Stole my thunder :biglaugh: