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That's good to hear!

Yeah...and unless you are very, very careful about using an even, circular pattern, you can create a low spot. The head is even easier for this to happen. Then you need to check the block and head for flatness. Otherwise you are asking for trouble. I'd use a fine Scotch Brite pad and...

TB = Throttle Body ISC = Idle Speed Control You sanded the block!!! Not good dude! :3d_frown:

First, check the coolant lines that run to the TB and ISC valve. Might want to check the inside of both to make sure there is no coolant leak.

Congrats...I appreciate you serving our country! One piece of advice though...learn (very quickly) when to keep your mouth shut...especially in training ;)

LOL...I put an astroids machine in to a constant run loop once because I exceeded the max score the machine could display. You could walk away for an hour and and it would still be running. Unfortunately, I'm older than IJ...still got the ole eye to hand coordination though ;) Just can't...

Jay - I hate to tell ya, but I'd have to kick your arse and add your name to the long list of those I've defeated...actually those I annihilated ;)

And the corollary..."at the worst possible time" ;)

On the parts you get cyro'ed, make sure you check clearances...cyro tends to shrink the part a tiny bit. In fact, I'd re-check every clearance and spec on the crank, rods, and pistons. The suggestion for ARP rod bolts is sound advice...get ARP head studs too ;)

I really wish you guys would stop throwing out "hearsay" torque specs for ARP hardware. It's really simple...use the torque specs on the sheet that comes from ARP and is in the package with the bolts/studs. Pay attention to the sheet...it will have specs for either moly or motor oil as the...

JDM JZ cars have a catalytic converter temp sensor ;)

You got it David...a heads up. The driveshafts are different depending on the trannys. The section closest to the tranny is a different length for an auto (A340E). vs the R154...I *think* the W58 (used on the NA version MkIII) is different as well. Mine is an auto.

The SCE copper gasket is bare metal correct? If so, I can see why they would want you to use a spray sealer. The sprays are only a problem is the MHG is coated with vitron.

I agree...there's a place for both types of driveshaft. David - I appreciate you looking into the 2 piece upgraded shaft. There's guys here that will want the aluminum shaft as well. I look forward to what you come up with ;)

I have no doubt David your driveshafts can handle the HP...my aluminum shaft has been working out well too. Nor am I implying your shafts would have any safety issues. It's extended high speed...the Mk III is a heavy touring car, not a drag car (though some guys make them that way). The track...

Yes I do...it's a very well made, balanced 1 piece. I get some vibration at 60-70 MPH that is not noticible at higher or lower speeds. My concern is the harmonics at high speed...IJ has his act together...I was not as "educated' on drive shaft critical speed when I purchased it. I'm going...

Ignore these guys David...they're just giving you a hard time. They can't help themself ;) I would want a steel 2 piece. You are dead on concerning aluminum and I'm not so sure the weight reduction aluminum would offer is worth it.

And some of the gunk may have clogged your thermostat...I'd pull it to make sure the stat and water neck it's attached to is clear.

It really does not matter which way the in/out holes are orientated. If you are using a stock filter head (sounds like you are), the oil will drain from the cooler (pointing down) into the pan. But, the stock cooler circuit does not pressurize until ~40 psi...the cooler is never pressurized at...