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This will make your life easier (at least figuring out what shims to use) ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50674

That's an excellent choice too...you won't be disappointed with PP 5W-30 ;)

Check out AutoZones, lets say, in "economically depressed" areas of town...most of the folks that live in those areas go cheap on oil and wouldn't touch a 0W-30 with a 10 foot pole. Been successful in a lot of cities ;)

LOL...is it the GC Green? (the oil is actually green) If so, that's the really good stuff...btw, they changed the label at the beginning of 2005 ;)

Like I said...endorsements mean squat. Also, from the info I have, Nippon Oil makes the factory fill for Toyota cars & trucks. I going to say it once more, keep the discussion on Eneos' performance as a lubricant...that is the bottom line. No more talk about HP gains from using any brand...

Take a look at this thread...Info on GC starts at post #4: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768 There's two different bottles in the US...the older "Green" GC and the new version out since 2005. The way to ID it is in the thread and it's still popping up in the AutoZones...

The thermostat has nothing to do with coolant...it needs to be in the oil flow so it can sense oil temp. If the oil filter screws directly on to the block like the NA 7M or it uses a straight through filter head, you can use one of these sandwich adapters...

Dr Haas has forgot more about oil than I will likely ever know. ;) Take a look in the oil section, there's a thread on "favorite oil" with a lot of good info in it. I like German Castrol 0W-30 (Grp IV PAO)...Red Line 5W-30 (Grp V ester) is outstanding, but a bit expensive. Royal Purple...

I have an idea...take a look in the TSRM!

An oil cooler is necessary on any turbo motor IMO...the turbo produces additional heat that can easily take oil temps above 100 deg C where the oil viscosity is correct for the motor. Temps above 100 deg C cause viscosity to drop quickly and cause the oil to break down....you will also lose oil...

Well, hopefully my post above gives you a start concerning the way to approach looking at oils. I take endorsements with a grain of salt...Ferrari endorses Q Power oil, Penske endorses Mobil 1...I could go on. You have to be analytical and cut through the marketing hype. I have nothing...

I highly recommend using an oil cooler on your 1JZ...sandwich plate, thermostat and lines. Upgrade the cooler too...your motor will thank you ;)

14mm!?!? Not even close! :3d_frown: Both the drain and fill plug is 24mm or 15/16" socket sizes...the 15/16" actually fits a bit more snug. Just confirmed it on the LSD I have sitting in the garage.

^^^ Yep! A very important tip.

This is interesting...two posts in two days on the same oil...from opposite sides of the country ;) It did peak my interest on Eneos oils...here's what I posted (post #6) concerning the 0W-50 in another thread in this section. Basically, states my opinion on using any 50W oil in a street...

Here's the latest ARP spec sheet for the bolts: Since we have an aluminum head, I would get the ARP moly lube and torque to 75 ft/lbs.

The temps inside the turbo are significantly higher (I don't know the exact temps) and the oil going through the turbo loop is directly from the pump to the pan. A lot of oil is supplied to the turbo as a result and it's not in the turbo long enough to case break down. Also, think about it for...

Rudy - It's fairly obvious you didn't read Dr Haas' article on motor oils...if you had, you would have understood how a multigrade oil works and that a 50W is not the optimum oil for the 7M or JZ motors. Since it seems you are promoting the Eneos 0W-50, I took a look at it: I'm pretty...

Read post 2, 10 and 16 at minimum: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41775 IMO a ?W-50 is too thick to be running in a 7M or JZ motor. This is why: http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/