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Oliver! I thought you fell off the planet! ;)

Oh yeah it does! Pain in the arse to get out...I use one one the greatest inventions on the planet. Duct tape! ;)

Stock bolts or ARP? Need to know previous torque value if stock bolts are re-used and studs or bolts if ARP is used. You do know the head/block decks have a specific RA (smoothness) spec when using a metal HG? This requires machine work. The HKS requires the lowest value (most smooth) of the...

I was using my experience as well...based on coating a lot more pipes than just one. I stopped coating flex sections due to the reason I stated...no way from the beginning on the braided type. To tell me it's not true is, frankly, an insult...especially based on one pipe. Yeah...might want...

Do it if you like...suggest you get under the car and take a close look at the gaps in the flex...and if it's made out of mild steel, those little chips will rust. Rather quickly with the heat that is present too. But, who am I to know...I've only coated 25-30 downpipes. ;)

Time to get a bigger, better turbo ;) I hope the internals on your motor is built to handle that kind of boost...otherwise:

Yes - a couple of things though: - Make sure a 2000 deg rated coating is used...especially on exhaust parts. Otherwise the heat will cause problems with coating adhesion. - If its done right, the parts are bead blasted (all rust & carbon is removed inside/outside to bare metal) then the...

No...he's saying that a coolant sensor code indicates a failure of the sensor or it's circuit. In which case the ECU will use the fail-safe value of 80 deg C (176 deg F)...the min value for the ECU to come out of warm-up enrichment to normal ops mode. This should not cause the motor to run...

You guys need to stop focusing on pressure and start concentrating on flow. Shimming the pump and removing the stock filter head will increase flow, but only to the point of the ability of the channels in the block/head have to handle it. Once you reach that point, your pressures will increase...

Yeah...it's over kill...I wouldn't call it major though ;) The ceramic and wrap work the same way...keeps the heat inside the pipe. Ceramic is very good, but you will still get radiated head from ceramic coated parts...cuts it down 50-70% (depending on how hot), but does not eliminate it...

Ceramic coating is good, but if you have provision for heat shields...I'd use them. Anything to keep the heat down in the engine bay is a plus. On my next downpipe, I'm going to ceramic coat it and then wrap it. If you don't have attachments for heat shields, I would most definitely ceramic...

A very long time ;) You need to keep it in a place without big temperature swings, dry and away from sunlight.

Yeah...that is the risk you take using a 180 deg stat. You must have a very healthy cooling system and a big rad ;) Don't have that problem here in Phoenix! You want the coolant to get above 176 deg F to signal the ECU to switch from warm-up enrichment to normal mode. In most cases, a 190...

IJ is running an accumulator ;) And a lot of other "neat" mods too. Like I said, 5mm is plenty. More pressure is not necessarily better...as long as you are getting 10 psi per 1000 rpm. Plus if you shim too much, you risk binding the spring. I forget the diameter of the washers...as...

Geezer - yep, that's it. The jiggle valve is on top to allow air to be purged from the system. The only mod I know of to help is to use a pair of snips and remove the jiggle valve...the small hole will allow constant flow through the rad, preventing back pressure and is better at purging air...

IJ is not running a stock oil system...lets call it "heavily modified" ;) 5mm should be plenty. Keep in mind there is a 2nd relief valve on the stock filter head that opens up at ~40psi and feed the oil cooler circuit before it is routed to the pan. You will not see pressures much above 40...

A boost leak (bad IC piping/connectors) causes problems like this. Make sure there are no IC/IC piping leaks and go from there.

Yep...~5mm using washers.

The jiggle valve on the stat goes at the top...12 o'clock position. Stat orientation has nothing to do with the seal.

Yeah, you can screw the surface up using Scotch Brite too...especially if used with an air grinder. It is a bit more forgiving than sandpaper though when used by hand.