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Sure you didn't blow a turbo hose? (i.e. massive boost leak)

Exactly...we're saying the same thing. I can't see a way to add flow to the back of the block (at least not easily).

And the pressure on that line would have to be greater than the pressure inside the block, otherwise insignificant flow. Capping off the stock water pump outlet and diverting all flow to the middle of the block would do this...you couldn't divert coolant and feed, say the drain hole at the back...

You want to cooler circuit to open up a bit before the 100 deg C (210 deg F) temp oil likes to be at inside the engine. The temp will continue to climb and then stabilize at the point when the cooler can get rid of the heat. If it's a big cooler, the temp will drop and the thermostat will...

Just don't see how it can help IJ...there is no flow of "cooler coolant" ;)

Nope...doesn't work that way. Unless you live in a hot climate, use the stock 190 deg thermostat...it was designed for *most* driving conditions. The problem with using a 200 deg stat it the ECU will pull timing over 210 deg F. So what you have here is a coolant temp range the ECU "wants" to...

AJ - You can do it either way. Engine out of the car I'm with Dugums...studs on 1st with washers in the holes. In the car, I align the head/HG with the two pins, drop the washers in the hole, and screw the studs in...getting clearance for the head above the studs is a challenge, especially...

Chris - Yes studs are threaded into the block and use a 12 point nut & washer on the other side to secure the head. It's not stupid at all...like I said, studs provide a more consistant clamping force...there is no "torque twist" on the stud shaft like you have on a bolt. ARP studs or bolts...

Studs are stronger and provide a more consistant clamping force. Studs are also more expensive, which is why Toyota used bolts ;)

Colder thermostats delay getting the coolant up to the 176 deg F temp the stock ECU uses to switch from warm-up enrichment to normal run mode. A 160 deg thermo could easily delay getting the coolant up to ops temp a long time, especially if it's cold outside, by opening the path to the radiator...

K&N is a good filter...especially if the price is right ;) Made by Champion Labs...same guys that make Mobil 1 and WalMart SuperTech. Here's a read on filters for ya: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763

Nope...you can go straight to a syn oil. Just use a good filter (Wix or PureOne) and a 0W or 5W-30...German Castrol (0W-30) is what I like.

Well, I'm not going to try and convince you of anything...I will tell you my opinion, and then you can do whatever you like ;) 1) Straight 30W motor oil does not contain the amount of additives a multi-grade does, notability anti-wear and film thickness modifiers. This actually provides...

No Jet, you read correctly. Dug out the diagram and the ECU does supply voltage to IDL internally. You have to switch ground (E2) for it to provide a valid IDL signal...the diagram Chris posted is correct.

Gas petals have play in the cable...that would not be the best choice IMO. You need a switch that closes when pressure is released...tack weld a tab on the TB bell crank to actuate the switch. Mount the switch on a bracket with it centered on the tab. I'm not sure I understand the...

IDL is an on/off switch, however it supplies a 5 volt signal to the ECU. If you do rig a microswitch, it will have to be tapped off Vcc (5 volts...Blue/Red Stripe on Supra harness...Red on the Ford harness) and switched to the yellow/blue stripe wire that sends IDL to the ECU. The switch would...

And the EGR requires vacuum...read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59254 And the BOV too ;) The short answer is no, you need the vac system.

Supra Wire Colors / Ford TPS Wires (assuming you have the harness connector for the Ford TPS) Blue/Red Stripe / Red (Vcc...5 volt power) White/Red Stripe / Green (VTA...throttle position) Brown / Black (E2...Ground) The problem you will have is the IDL signal will be at...

I had the exact same experience with EGT when I had it off. Had to install the EGR to pass emissions and EGT dropped in the mid-range rpms. A JDM TCCS is plug-n-play with the respective year harness and tranny, just get the correct year (in your case an '88). I played around with one...

The green is more desirable, but was last made in early 2005...if you find any, it's old stock. But in all honesty, it really doesn't matter...GC is still an excellent oil in it's present formulation.