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Ahhh...they didn't mark the 7M cranks ;) Didn't know that...learn something new every day.

No...all the bolts say 7M (at least the ones I've seen) The crank should be stamped on one of the counter weights "6M" or "7M". The 7M has additional counter weights and is heavier.

It would help if you read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=230560 Us "Old School" guys generally know what we are talking about and will tend to "poke" at those that pull stuff out of the air...especially if it is wrong (as in this case on over filling a quart)...

Got any idea of how many quarts over full it would take before that would happen? Of course you don't, or you would not have made that statement. Time for a little research my man.

Hmmm...I see they changed the bottle...Again! I can also see why you would think this is a "new Green GC"...it does have a green tint to it as does the 2006 production in the pics below. Next to it is 2004 production Green GC...I took pics in different lighting to highlight the difference...

You'll be safe at 3.95 psi. :sarcasm:

A couple of points to consider SG: The EGR does produce a performance hit...that is why it is disabled above 4000 rpm, the engineers limited the hit to lower power ranges. All you have to do is add a bit more throttle and you got the power you need at the mid rpm range. The real issue here...

And the problem with running a quart high would be?

I would run the oil level a quart high ;)

Go to 70 ft/lbs...do it in 7 then 5 ft/lb increments.

Chris - I understand. If it's the date codes he posted, it's not the Green GC (at least to my knowledge). He was not specific about the bottles he actually bought ;)

JJ...agree 100 %. Had a custom FFIM made: That piping leading to behind the TB flange is for the EGR ;) The effect the ECU has in conjunction with the EGR was a bit more than I thought ;) Nice write-up.

LOL...it's not for the aftermarket turbo ;) You want to run a quart high for oil (as shown on the dip stick) on ANY 7M motor. It's insurance...if you run a bit low, slosh the oil under heavy braking or turns, and uncover the oil pick-up...no oil to bearings = rod knock.

I agree...removing the EGR is not a huge issue ECU wise. Just wanted to make you guys aware of it. ;) The best thing to do would be to install a JDM ECU...it does not have the EGR function. My EGT probe is located on the turbine housing, just before the mating flange to the manifold. It...

You can use this kind of block off plate on the back of the head vs tapping a plug fitting. It eliminates the EGR cooler. The EGR will help reduce detonation and I experienced a 50-100 deg C drop in EGT. Both are due to the reasons posted above. The EGR has no effect on HP and keep...

I'm not aware of a "new Green"...pretty sure CT got his hands on a few bottles of the old stuff ;)

It's very close to the same...the Green GC contained some esters that are not identified. Both are primarily PAO base stock. Mostly the difference was noticed with an oil wear analysis....the Green was a bit better.

::bhg::

How about tapping into the turbo feed line with a T-fitting and route to the drain hole near the #6 cylinder?

This is a true statement...keep in mind the venturi effect drops temperature. The real cause of carburetor icing (or TB icing) is the combination of OAT and humidity...pilots on piston engine aircraft have had to deal with it since the Wright brothers. Take a look at this chart...