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Spoken like a true MK III owner :biglaugh:

Part # 85381-AA042 Both nozzles cost $23 at Champion Toyota. It is one of those "nice" little upgrades ;)

Do MIT ;) I was an F-16 pilot and my degree is in accounting...lol. The AF did pay for my MBA though ;) I did the mechanical engineering thing for two years of college and working for Southern Company (AL Power, GA Power, etc) and finally discovered I could not stand being cooped up...

You didn't say you wanted to be a test pilot ;) That will require an Aero degree...you might want to re-think it though. Being a test pilot is not like it was when Chuck Yeager was torching up the sky. Most "tests" are using computer modeling...when the pilot (quite a few don't have a...

You won't have to take the turbo off...just take the WG actuator off like you did before...two bolts and a c-ring holding the arm to the bell crank. You should also be able to freely move the little bell crank that's attached to the flapper inside the turbine housing.

Ok - Kinda answers my questions above. Take the WG actuator off and blow some compressed air (gently!) into the nipple. The actuator arm should move.

First - Are there any shims under the bracket where where the WG actuator attaches to the turbo? 2nd - If it is an aftermarket WG actuator, some of them have a screw type adjustment where it attaches to the flapper inside the turbo. If it does, unscrew it a few turns and test.

Titus - It's not the degree that really makes you competitive...degree difficulty does to a certain extent, but it's mostly your grades, performance in the office program, and your participation that will get you a pilot slot. I'd take leadership skills in an officer any day over extensive...

^^^ :bigthumb:

One thing to keep in mind...you have to start SUPT (pilot training) by age 27 1/2. You don't have to have an aero degree to be trained as a pilot or become an officer. Not sure where you are in school year/credit wise, but you can take AFROTC for 2 years and get a commission...full ride...

It's boosting higher because you eliminated the exhaust leak...all of the flow is hitting your turbine like it should. Not sure what wastegate actuator you're using, but I suspect it's set for a default of 15-16 psi. The drips out of your exhaust is likely water with soot mixed in...normal...

Yeah, but the spec is different for bolts vs studs...that's why Piratetip asked. He didn't answer the question. Plus a torque wrench that is out of calibration can under torque just as easy as over. It doesn't matter I guess...I would re-torque the hardware. ARP recommends that 5...

<Sigh>...Bolts or studs? And how do you know if it's an over torque or under torque?

The words "Good" and "Cheap" machinist rarely belong in the same sentence...that is unless you have a buddy that's a machinist.

Check the inside of the filter...if it's got a red tinge or feels oily, it's not a DryFlow. A compression test is easy...you need the proper compression gauge adapter to screw into the spark plug holes. Compression Test The MAFT Pro does not include a wideband. I would get a wideband O2...

It's a Flux Capacitor!

Did you happen to short to ground (even just a second) when you changed the cable?

If any of you guys are interested, I have a set of ceramic chrome coated NA valve covers for sale...it will save ya a lot of time ;)

I donno...But, looks like snake oil, smells like snake oil, tastes like snake oil....

Well if it tips over fore/aft, it's gotta be a fat footed driver or tips sideways the driver is meat fisting the steering wheel...the 1J doesn't have enough torque to tip a glass sitting on the seat :biglaugh: