Search results

You gotta love good, clean head :bigthumb: (sorry...couldn't resist)

^^^ LOL!

One other thing - if that pipe has been ceramic coated (looks like it might be), you will have to remove the ceramic in the areas where you plan to weld. Ceramic resists heat very well...welding on top of it is a big problem ;) I'd replace the whole flex section...just make sure you mke...

Depends on if moly or oil was used and which hardware it was...bolts OR studs (you don't have both). If moly was used, his hardware was over torqued (a lot!)...ARP torque values are based on 75% of the yield strength. That means there is little left to accommodate the greater expansion of...

Desert Rat does in Phoenix ;) I bet the AEM site has a list of dealers.

We are dealing with Mk III owners here :biglaugh:

PM Sethron71...he lives in your neck of the woods now (Richmond iirc). He does nice work on a FFIM...made me one fully customized to my needs and retained the AC. He's a pretty busy guy, but might be able to help you out...don't expect this kind of work to be cheap ;) I posted some pics in...

Yes...and even if it was, it would have to be sustained for a long period.

No, I have not. 120 mph was right at 1/2 critical speed rpm for this DS...if a harmonic was going to develop, that's when it would happen (or before). That's why I wanted to get to 120 mph ;)

Stock bolts will easily handle that HP...the stock HG torqued to 70-75 flt/lbs with stock bolts can go to 14 psi of boost all day (some guys have gone higher). If you keep the stock ECU and don't go nuts with boost, you'll be fine. You want to avoid detonation (#1 killer of HG's IMO)...if you...

Agreed...don't drive it with a leaking FPR. Not only could you go lean, but if it leaks into the bay you can have a fire on your hands. I have a stock FPR...if you need it, PM me.

First - Have you checked for any codes? It's not likely the O2 sensor causing this problem...during power enrichment (i.e when you stomp on it), the TCCS goes into open loop operation and ignores the AFR feedback from the O2. I would suspect: 1) Boost leak - Like Grim said, it may not be...

Yeah, he did say bolt...I can't count the number of times posters have said the same thing and call a "nut" a "bolt". Just wanted to confirm so the correct spec gets posted....but, like I said, it really doesn't matter...he needs to back them off and torque to the correct spec for either bolts...

Thanks Kristian - I was reading that the SLX was the old formula GC "Green" we used to get in the US...last seen here in early 2005. I found it hard to believe, and since you had some SLX in your hand, you confirmed what I thought. The SLX is the same as current production German Castrol we...

I wouldn't, but as you've read, it's been done. I would re-torque the stock bolts to 70-75 ft/lbs...in two passes per the TSRM pattern.

^^^ Same thing I use for the initial polish on ceramic, except it's 10-15 minutes ;) Finish up with Blue Magic metal polish.

Check the 100 amp ALT fuse in the box behind the battery.

Read the thread man...we're not talking about the usual re-torque after 500 miles or so. And for the record, you might get away with not re-torquing studs after several heat cycles, but you darn sure want to do it with bolts.

Well I was skeptical, but the single piece aluminum DS I got from Shaftmasters for my auto tranny has produced zero vibration at highway speed where you usually see a harmonic develop. Been driving it 4 days now...same result...no harmonic, no noise.

It's gotta look like this...if the actuator arm is at a different angle, it will bind. No work that way ;)