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^^^ Handy little bugger too!

Experience/Treachery > Youth/Strength :evil2: Yeah...it's about 12 hours from SFO. In fact, I may fly you there, if it's not for a couple months and depending on which airline. ;) And MDC is correct...business or 1st class is the way to go!

One word - "YES" My son went to Prague for college summer classes...the cultural experience was eye opening ;)

I wouldn't say Craftsman "sucks" Frank. Granted, there's better tools out there, but way expensive for the backyard mechanic. For most folks Craftsman works fine and if you bust one, Sears replaces it no questions asked.

Cut the jiggle valve off it...not going to hurt a thing ;)

BTW - there's a torque pattern for the cams too ;)

I would re-torque the head bolts to 70-75 ft/lbs...use the TSRM pattern and do it in two passes (assuming the bolts are at the stock 56 ft/lbs). Boost wise - you'll be safe up to 14 psi or so on a stock HG. I assume you already have a 3" downpipe...above that, you'll need additional...

It's 14mm or 9/16", 12 point like IJ said. Did you rotate the cams and give it a try? You can reuse a MHG, but all the old viton coating has to be removed. Acetone or paint thinner works well. After you get all the old viton off, coat it with copper spray before you put it back on.

Yeah...check your timing. I have had problems in the past with the thermostat sticking (both Toyota and SuperStat) and coolant temp spiking...always happened in the 1st few miles with low coolant temp. The coolant loop on the CT26 acts as a bypass...mine was removed/blocked off cause the...

The 3/8" drive socket has thinner walls than the 1/2" Craftsman socket. Yep...a 3/8>1/2" adapter on the socket...1/2 extension to 1/2 drive torque wrench (least that's the way I do it). You could get a 1/2" thin wall socket too though...always had all of the above in the box and it's worked...

Gee IJ...wonder why that is ;)

If you got a Sears nearby, a Craftsman 3/8" drive of the above will work fine.

Just make sure the speedo cable is not too close to the downpipe ;) Had one melt, worked fine till it cooled down, then snapped.

You're welcome...no insult intended ;)

- Make sure the block is flat...clean the deck very well...clean the carbon off the cylinder tops (Mopar Combustion Chamber cleaner). - The head has to be in TRSM spec for flatness...even if machined, the top of the head can have a "banana" to it. - Keep the valves, springs, retainers...

More likely the radiator is getting clogged, or the fan is not pulling enough air. Coolant temps should never be over 212 deg F (100 deg C).

Keep in mind guys $200 of this is for a new Toyota center bearing...and, you will be getting $100 back when the core is returned. Considering all that, it's a little more expensive than a single piece, but you rid yourself of the OEM two piece rear shaft with the rubber damping material holding...

An astute grasp of the obvious ;)

Bottom pic...1/8" NPT port is correct.

Yep...just tried to do the same thing on the motor I have on the stand. The nut will not fit down the dipstick guide. The nut has found a good place to hide, but I'll bet that place is not the oil pan.