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Looks like your back-up fell through slick...good of you to confirm what we all already know ;)

Well done ;)

The stock head thickness is 116mm from deck to valve cover sealing surface Block height...NFI.

If you're planning to use the block off plate on the EGR side of the cooler, you will still have an exhaust leak around the cooler. You have to block off the exhaust feed hole on the passenger side. Pics in this thread show what I'm talking about...

Never used Federal bearings...IJ might chime in on them. Oil feeds from the filter to a channel running the length of the block...the channel filter inlet is between the #2 & #3 cylinders. This channel feeds the squirters and main bearings...oil from the mains feeds holes in the crank, which...

SIP Racing (suprarich) has ATI Dampers for the 7M...might be worth a PM for the 4AG. They are actually a bit cheaper than a new stock damper from Toyota ;) A little over 5 lbs lighter and the AC pulley can be removed. Yes...you want to run a damper even on a zero balance assembly...

And you seem to think you know more than ARP does about the head bolts they make. For the record, max on an aluminum head is 75 ft/lbs for bolts using moly...NOT 85 ft/lbs...that is called an over torque. And you like to talk BS about someone you have no clue about as to ability or...

Thanks Chris...the guy obviously doesn't have a clue. Not man enough to come out and call me a liar either. In fact, he might as well ask Adam about me too while he's at it ;) My work/knowledge speaks for itself...I'll stack it against some forum troll any day. I have no time/patience...

Glad it amuses you :sarcasm: Not sure if a 4ag uses a dampened pulley or not myself...if it does, you don't want to use anything else that's not dampened.

LOL...more emotional BS...going into attack/defense mode I see. :bowdown: NOT! And if you're going to call me a liar...be man enough to do straight out son. I'm thinking this thread is done.

My vote is the 10/22...got one, fun little plinking gun.

Old joke, but still a good one...especially considering the current political situation: Are you a Democrat, Republican, or Southerner? Here is a little test that will help you decide. The answer can be found by posing the following question: You're walking down a deserted street...

Clevite are repackaged NDC bearings...they are what I use. If you can find NDC bearings, they will likely be a bit cheaper and just as good. You should be able to reuse ARP rod bolts...measuring overall length to make sure they were not over stretched is a good idea. Take a look at this...

No stupid questions...only stupid answers ;) You could get away with it...depending on the condition of the rod ends. I would at least check to be sure they were properly re-sized and are round. Kinda hard to do with them in the motor, but you could with the proper tools. It would save a...

It would be good to know what the clearances were and and if under sized bearing were used. The condition of the crank journals is an unknown too...I have to agree, if the journals were not cut to round, it can cause problems. The reason I asked what weight oil is sometimes you can buy a bit...

All it takes is once...even running a quart low and getting slosh in the pan that uncovers the oil pick-up will do it. Once the bearing is scored, it will just get worse and sometimes won't become apparant right away. What grade/make oil you using?

Answers ONE question ;)

It's the harmonics of the crank that causes the problem...it's hard on the bearings.

And did you have the rods re-sized? Clearances on the rods? Did it EVER run low on oil after the build?

You don't have to be at WOT to melt a piston ;) In *most* cases, the problem happens with a Lex, increasing boost, no AFPR, no WB O2, and no fuel control...i.e you have no idea what the motor is doing.