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You could also get a Supra JDM cannister and mount in the passenger wheel well. That will get it out of the bay and the system still function as intended...win-win.

Don't know the exact specs (weight wise) for GM open differentials, but the Red Line products should work well. Get the differential oil without friction modifier...75W-90NS for example. A heads up on the RP products, most of their differential oils contain friction modifier.

Are the differentials LSD?

NA Pump on a turbo motor = Bad Idea. The turbo pump fits fine in a NA block...the big difference is the lack of squirters. A turbo pump is an upgrade on NA engines as well IMO.

I have to agree with SC and JJ...oil analysis is the best way IMO to tell what's going on inside your motor without tearing it down. And, you can extend oil life out past 10K miles before you have to change it....considering oil prices these days, that's a good thing.

Take a look at the thread link I posted above...there are several pics of the different bottles you may see. One thing in common on all...GC (real name - Castrol European Formula) only comes in 0W-30 and it says "Made in Germany" on the rear label. A visit to the Lubrication Section is not a...

Understand...do the same thing myself. Afterall, it is a Max RA spec ;)

^^^ Look forward to it :biglaugh: Sydney (maybe Melborne) is on the agenda too ;)

Tis true...I've been running around Asia for the last month or so and will continue to do so for a while. No attitude toward me at all. Same when I was in Europe...of course, there are the French ;) Mike - It's not just Japan...not hard at all to see over the crowd in China, Vietnam...

Thought so...in that case, the max RA spec is 50 as previously mentioned.

Wiggle the CPS wires...if you have a helper crank it while you do, that's better.

LOL..same here! Put the car in gear, emergency brake on and try to tighten the crank bolt with a 19mm socket...it it turns clockwise (at all) it's loose.

Yeah, a loose crank bolt will make a knocking sound...kinda slight at 1st, but when the keyway is FUBAR'ed, it gets pretty bad. Might want to check behind those cam gears to be sure nothing (like the outside bolts) is hitting the back plate or one of the bolts securing the back plate to the...

Pretty sure he's manual Ian.

I hate listening to vids...it's just too hard to tell. Not your fault, but to be honest, I don't want to say one way or the other...I know that doesn't help, but :dunno: If I was in your neck of the woods, I'd come over ;) Makes me wonder since the sound did not diminish when you pulled...

Yep...doing the same thing using the injector clips is a better option IMO. Less chance of getting a good jolt ;)

RP is not a bad oil (Grp IV PAO base stock)...it's just more slanted toward racing applications. That's a big reason it has antifriction additives (soluble moly actually) and a good dose of anti-foaming additives as well. Where it falls is in the detergent and anti-oxidant area...RP is not...

Rods need to be resized on a rebuild...period. Orginals or not. Cut the crank journals over .010" (10 thou) and it will need to be rehardened (Nitrated). Bearings have to be fit to the cut crank journals to proper undersize, rods resized to provide proper clearance. Shimming the pump...

Jason - Isn't the Titan a rebadged Cometic?

<--- Scribbles new spec # in EM section TSRM memo :biglaugh: