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Is the code 11 still stored...showing on the CEL when the diag block is jumped? If so, it's still there and will not allow other codes to show. And: ;)

Red Line MT-90 for the tranny...MTL will work, but is a bit thinner oil that is designed for use in Honda/BMW trannys. MT-90 is better suited for the R-154 IMO. Red Line 75W-90 for the LSD, but be aware you *may* get chatter using it in a worn differential...this LSD oil contains friction...

Link fixed ;)

Actually Nick, it's the opposite: Force X Distance = Torque If you lengthen the handle (say with a metal tube), you'll have to calculate the correct torque value: C = D(A/A+B) A = length of torque wrench B = length of adapter (metal tube) C = torque wrench setting D = desired...

It will do it again ;)

Doesn't mean squat. Actually means something ;)

Oh Yeah! And I'd buy a car for a guy with ZERO feedback...LOL

Only reason I said that is it's amazing how misinfo gets started, usually based on a bad assumption. For example, I've been preaching the ARP torque specs for a long time now...no one seems to go to ARP's site to figure out WHY you don't want to over torque or what goes into the specs they...

That's one possibility.

Unless you've removed your charcoal canister ;)

Aeromotive A1000-6

No, that is not correct...extensions do not affect the accuracy of a torque wrench, assuming it is properly calibrated to begin with. (Where do you guys come up with this stuff...MHG thickness, extensions, etc ?!?)

Just for future reference, if you type into Google say: 116 mm to inch you'll get the answer ;) Works for temp C to F, etc too

Think about that for a second and what the cam gears do ;) I know you're a college student without a lot of available $$$...are you really using the adj cam gears for what they are meant to do? Think a set of stock cam gears might be a better option?

Yes...the hole on the gear. If it's no longer a tight fit on the pin, the gear is FUBAR.

The round hole for the cam pins, top of the bolt...meaning no longer round ;) I'm thinking the same thing as IJ...AEM or Fidanza gears. And, if the gear is bent, it's a no brainer.

IMO, it is. Can you get away without it...sure. The problem is when you look at the tolerances for after market pistions. Take Ross for example...they list 6 thou as the piston to wall clearance for a turbo motor. Not using a torque plate can induce as much as a 3 thou error. Ross pistions...

;) Start by making sure the gears are ok...i.e. the pin holes are not elongated. If they are the gear(s) are trashed and you need to get quality ones. If they are ok, make sure the washer is in place and the bolt is torqued to spec...use blue loctite on the threads. Whew...RK would have...

^^^ True statement. I just got back from a machine shop an hour ago...the owner was proud of his work. Showed me a block off an Eclipse...the deck was mirror smooth. Only problem is he doesn't have a torque plate for a 7M...not enough demand.

Very easy to change...look in the TRSM Cooling System section (page CO-8). A couple things: - Either use a Toyota stat or a Stant SuperStat at the stock temperature rating (190 deg F)...don't be tempted to get one at a colder rating. - Cut the jiggle valve off (at the 12 o'clock position...