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Basically correct...once the force of the torque wrench, regardless of the head extension length, over comes the resistance of the bolt sufficiently to click the wrench (or indicate on a dial), that is the torque transferred to the bolt.

And thin the top of the piston? Change it's shape? What about the indents for the valves? You're opening up a can of worms Hommer. Using a thicker MHG is easiest...changing the rod is more difficult, but if it's no extra cost, it's the way to do it.

75 ft/lbs (w/ moly)...ARP spec for bolts on an aluminum head ;)

^^^ I call it "being reminded" ;)

LOL :runaway:

NP ;) Get those springs...excellent, inexpensive upgrade.

Well...better lucky than good ;) I see you're using JE pistions...I looked at their website a few weeks ago and found out these pistions are an 8.8:1 CR (stock is 8.4:1). That means, you can afford to drop the CR a bit using a 2mm HG. Have your machinist take the min necessary off to...

Comp Cams IS the name of the company that sells them...yes, they are the valve springs ;) They are the inner springs from a small block Chevy...they happen to fit our valve train. When determining thickness for a MHG, you have to know a couple things. First, a stock HG is 1.37mm...

This is an old wives tale, argued for years and disproved in many ways. Let's do a little physics. One of the laws of physics governing force is: "For every action there is an equal but opposite reaction". Thus if you apply a rotary force to one end of a shaft (in this case an extension) it...

One thing you'll see people cheap out on is proper prep for a MHG...specifically the head/block decks. They don't get them to the RA spec required for a good seal...then, they get to re-do the job again ;)

Pennzoil Platinum is much better than average...I have not looked at Havoline in quite a while. There is a lot of info in the Lubricants section, you need to read it if you want to know about oils...start with the stickys and the Motor Oil 101 - AE Haas link in my sig. I closed the thread...

Valvoline oil = average Valvoline Filters = average (better than Fram - Champion Labs Filter) You can give the Valvoline 75W-90 & friction modifier a try if you like. You asked what I thought was best, and I told you. You can buy Red Line at Summit Racing.

The block...when you say "re-surfaced" what exactly was done? I would have a valve job done (3 angle mininum), replace the seals and have the guides checked for wear. Also, get Comp Cam Springs...you need to order 2 sets of 975-12 (12 = # in the package), they are ~$35 per set. Excellent...

Doesn't surprise me a bit ;) RP Max Gear has friction modifiers in it...not good for synchros. RP Syncromesh is way too thin...used in manual trannys that require ATF.

Guys - Read the thread...his cam gear was loose ;)

Ditto! I was thinking extra $$$ was involved ;)

You'll be ok with that gear oil...it does not contain friction modifiers (you don't want this in a tranny), so it's not going to hurt a thing. MT-90 is a better choice due to it's formulation. I wouldn't drain the 75W-90NS to replace it though...use MT-90 next time ;) Edit: I mis-read...

Cometic will make a MHG at any thickness/bore size you require...a 1.8mm thick would be about right. I would resize the rods, but only to the extent to get them round. Bearing size is determined by what is done to the crank journals. FYI, taking off more than 10 thou will remore the...

Bolt extractor

I look for a shop that has CBN capability and doesn't mind showing you their work. Important points: - Torque plate - Ability to machine a deck surface at ~30 RA - Ability to hit cylinder bore diameter at .0005" accuracy - Ability to measure and line hone the main bearing saddles if...