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Typical response from someone that pulls crap out of their arse...I see you didn't take the time to read the link I posted or is it your sub-sized brain has difficulty comprehending any kind of technical info? Just so anyone reading this flushes that crap down the toilet: - ARP does not...

No

AMSOIL 20W-50 Motor Oil (ARO) Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt 18.4 Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt 115.7 Viscosity Index 178 CCS Viscosity @ -15°C, cP 3605 Pour Point °C -36 (-33 °F) Flash Point °C 232 (450 °F) Fire Point °C 254 (489°F)...

The JDM's I've seen have the plate ;)

Allstreet - You have no clue what you're talking about. One should ALWAYS use the ARP spec when using their hardware...the torque spec is different for bolts vs studs and over torquing (lube dependant) is NOT a good idea. As stated before...use the torque sheet that comes with ARP hardware...

You're lucky ;) Here's what has (and easily can) happen using stock 440's and a Lex AFM...start reading at post #16 http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64054 IMO, a Walbro 190 is a bit small...if fuel pressure drops off at WOT and you go lean, the same thing as in the...

It looks identical to the picture...all the heads I've seen (JDM or USDM) have the EGR holes. JDM heads usually don't have the EGR cooler though.

The one on the right is blocking the exhaust gas feed. The one on the left doesn't matter since you don't have an EGR cooler and the exhaust gas feed is already blocked. A plate here is purely cosmetic and you'll still have an open hole on the left rear in the EGR cooler area. A very...

And are the coil packs/plug wires in the following order: Left Coil 1-6 Middle Coil 3-4 Right Coil 2-5 Not to be confused with the firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4

^^^ Exactly ;)

Check the connection to the AFM...check all the IC clamps/hoses. Any codes? You're sure the CPS is installed correctly?...I have a pic if you need it.

The only thing I've seen on Eagles is you need to tweak the weights to match them up and check the crank ends for proper bearing clearances (about half needed minor resizing). As far as the metallurgy goes, they appear to be well made and they use quality rod bolts.

That is a good plan, but I would run straight dino 30W for the 1st 1500 miles to make sure the rings seat correctly...you can run Walmart SuperTech and filter...anything else is a waste of $$$. Then switch direct to the Red Line and a Wix or PureOne filter (I use Wix).

It should look like this installed w/ the crank pointing at zero and BOTH cam gears pointing at the index marks on the back plate:

Red Line 5W-30 62 cst @ 40 deg C...10.6 cst @ 100 deg C Red Line 10W-40 93 cst @ 40 deg C...14.6 cst @ 100 deg C

Not if it's applied correctly...if there is any oil residue (poor prep) or if an inferior prodect is used, yes. Once ceramic is baked on, it bonds with the metal. I've had to re-coat parts I screwed up when I 1st started doing it...it was a PITA to get off and that was using a blast cabinet.

I'd be more inclined to run a 40W on a high HP motor built with the clearances a bit more loose. There's a couple out there that would be a good compromise on the cold flow side. Actually, the German Castrol is a heavy 30W...getting close to a 40W at ops temp. I'm not shooting for HP numbers...

The ATI dampener is ~5 lbs lighter than stock...the AC pulley can can be removed making it lighter still. Suprarich sells them. BTW - underdriving the water pump is NOT a good idea.

Nash - the motor I'm working on will have the bearing clearances at mid-spec and I'm going to run a 0W-30 syn oil. One thing to keep in mind about oil is the 1st number is not accurate concerning viscosity cold...it is relative when comparing viscosities between oils. Cold viscosity on the...

Hmmm...a good coater would coat the inside of piping. I do ;) If the rad hard pipe is aluminum, it doesn't really matter...it would on steel though.