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Likely something about the valve train or a new BHG.

I didn't say you wouldn't gain some HP...I said the incremental increase over 14 psi (on a stock CT26) is small. I've seen it on dyno data pushing them from the 12-14 psi level to the 16-18 psi level. Especially when you consider the strain you're putting on the turbo. Evidence? Gee, and...

LOL...why did you even ask? Looks to me you've made your mind up and are hellbent to use it regardless of what's said here. I look forward to your future "new problem" thread.

If it exceeds the TRSM spec, I would not use it...personally I'd believe the book over hearsay. Like I said, your cam saddles are warped as well, and that has nothing to do with the HG used. On the other hand, you might get away with it...But, what do I know ;)

K&N filters are bad for the AFM only if it's over oiled (easy to do)...the big thing is they don't filter worth a crap. Only the H&K is worse iirc. You might want to take a look at the AEM site on their dry flow filters. You can get various lengths, diameters, and attachment opening sizes.

A 7M-GE head will work too...it's the cams that are different. The only worry I would have is you don't know the history of a head purchased from these guys...was it over heated, resulting it it getting annealed. If you did get one, I would also check the thickness...116mm from deck to valve...

Really! Could have fooled me ;)

ARZ (vendor - Arizona performance) is making these ;)

If the head is warped greater than 0.10mm (0.0039"), the TRSM says it needs to be replaced. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=42 If your head deck is warped, so are the saddles for the cams. Using a thicker HG is not a good idea. Give these guys a look...

Wiggle your CPS wiring while a helper turns it over.

And, if you have a code 11, no other diagnostic codes will be displayed. In other words, you could have other problems and not know it. You need to figure out what is causing the code 11. I would start by checking the ECU grounds at the intake manifold.

How do you tell the difference? (assuming you have just the tranny sitting in front of you) The foward clutch does have 1 additional disc/flange and the 1st/Reverse Brake has 1 additional disc/flange. Every thing else is identical from what I can see.

Dude - there is no difference and you cannot compare due to the differences in the former life of the trannys. Unless you have an A340 "built", anything over 350 HP will produce a very limited life...less if it's hit hard.

^^^ Me too ;) IJ - I'm having Rich do my crank and the consensus is the same as you posted...right around the 6# range is about all you want to do without disrupting the natural balance.

True, but only to a point. The biggest benefit is boost (flow) will come on sooner, building the HP curve earlier in the power band. You will still hit the flow limit of the compressor housing in the 16-18 psi range.

IC & piping will have no effect with a CT26 above 16-18 psi...the incremental difference in CFM flow on this turbo above that (even 14 psi) will do little to increase HP. That is due to the volumetric capacity of the compressor housing itself. Higher psi does not equal higher HP...you need...

A copper HG is difficult (if not impossible) to install properly on a 7M...a HKS or Cometic MHG is what you want to use. Both the block and head will need to meet the RA (smoothness) spec for the MHG used...you want both as smooth as possible. Do not use a spray sealer on a new MHG. Use ARP...

^^^ Gee...and I wonder who would be recommending that? :rolleyes:

Reading comprehension? ;)

Wes - A Lex AFM with stock 440 injectors?