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You'll have to get the oil shaft bearing and squirter bolts at Toyota. Old squirter bolts become very inconsistent on the pressures they actuate at...it should be ~40 psi...you can reuse the nozzles, but clean them out good. The timing belt tensioner should be the same for NA & Turbo...the...

Mild steel is fine if it's ceramic coated (inside too)...the ceramic will not rust. In fact, stainless is overkill with a ceramic coating.

Ummm....how about just taking the Resv off and cleaning the screen? Dirt kills hydraulic pumps ;)

You can't look at cam timing by itself, it's only part of the equation that makes the motor work as a system. Dow is pointing that out and the info he's posting illustrates it. ;) Kinda important for the guy tuning his motor to realize changing one aspect will change another.

- Oil pump (shim relief valve ~5mm) - Oil pump shaft bearing - Oil squirter bolts (6) - HG locator pins (2) - Timing belt tensioning spring...replace the pulley if the bearings are bad. - Toyota freeze plugs - NA oil filter stud if you're planning on going to a thermostat controlled oil...

Go mine from ARZ too...it's blue. Cracked CPS cover? Never again ;)

SIP Racing (PM suprarich) has all that stuff too ;)

If I were going to run a 7M at that RPM, I'd loosen up the bearing clearances a bit and run a heavier weight oil too. And do all the other mods (especially the accumulator & -10 lines) you did too Ian ;)

Was that running at the higher RPM (over stock red line) IJ?

Adjuster nailed it ;) Nash - Run -10 piping/fittings if you can and shim the pump ~5mm. Quick - I agree, mid to tight on the bearings are what this motor likes. I don't agree with your choice of oil brand/grade. I can see running a heavier oil with larger bearing clearances (and other...

It's not a good idea ;)

The danger in using a wire wheel to clean the surface is inducing low spots. The tight cylinder spacing on a 7M makes it fairly unforgiving when using a MHG. Like Donny said, there are success stories using a MHG on blocks that have not been machined...they better be squeaky clean though and I...

Especially since the turbo recirculates the exhaust gas...just adds heat and makes the EGR unnecessary. Dude You have NFI what you're talking about.

Yeah...no effect whatsoever on EGT, detonation, or emissions...especially since the turbo recirculates the exhaust gas. LOL :biglaugh:

Gosh JJ...don't you know anything? ;)

Compressed ;)

DIY Boost Leak Tester...read the entire thread closely: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19718 Or, you can check every clamp/hose from the turbo to IC to intake manifold. Hose cracks are NOT always obvious. Based on what you said before, I would suspect the BOV is...

I was referring to the drop in vacuum, but that is a symptom of valve timing. Check your codes and check for boost leaks. The fluttering does sound like it's the BOV.

A Felpro is a stock thickness :3d_frown: And with a head warped that much, it's 50/50. I'm done (should have been 3 posts ago)...good luck.

It's the CPS...very common problem. The car will start and run with the AFM unplugged ;) Suggest you check codes...The timing signals from the CPS may not be getting to the ECU as to effect timing advance. You also could have a boost leak.