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If it's free then take it. Do you know if it's a T3 or 4? What are you currently running now... CT26? If so, then you might have to go with another exhaust manifold, DP, and WG dump. Doesn't hurt to try it. If it doesn't work out what did you spend on it... nothing? You can go back to your...

15.1 @ 91mph w/ 2.1 60ft when I was stock with 5spd. Yeah, I was dissapointed too.

Are you refering to the large grooves (scratches) on the walls of the counterweights??

I second that. I'd like to see some close up shots of the paint. Um... nevermind. I posted before looking further. Sorry.

Which brings me to the question... is velocity important on force inducted cars? I've honestly been wanting to know that. All comments welcome.

Yeah, I remember getting them from the hole through the control arms. I have a '91 model.

Yes, I was in your exact situation. Only I wanted to get a house. I knew I could always come back to my Supra. It was really hard though cause I came up with roughly $14000 by closing time, and I was itching to fix up the Supra. Well, here I am five years later in my house with the Supra...

Should I assemble it myself to make sure everything is clean, and tolerances double checked? Or should I let them to it and trust their work? They are a good reputable machine shop here in town. What would you do? I have my shortblock at the machine shop. Just going with stock stuff no...

How did you break that rod? Those Pauters look meaty. What kind of piston is sitting on top of it?

This has to be a joke.

The cheap junkyards here don't have MKIII's in them yet. And when they do get them they put them into the "premium" caged area where everything there is pricey. The better junkyards will charge you damn nearly have of what it would cost you new. They suck here. BTW guys, I know the...

My machinist has a 7m crank that he's going to clean up for me. My old one had a keyway that was wobbled out due to a loose pulley. He's says he's going to turn both rod and main journals ten thousands to clean it up. The crank he has has a bad rod journal, and a questional main journal. He...

If you already have the 6m crank why not take it to a machine shop and let them turn it for you?

I am going to get the Toyota keys for the good fit. It was my understanding that woodruff keys were designed to break/shear in the event that one of your accessories locks up. This happens so that it doesn't put any strain on your timing chain/belt, or slow it down abruptly while the engine is...

This is what I wanted to know. Yeah, they look cheap as hell. I don't know why I bought them. Looks like I'll be on my way to the dealership... Monday. BTW, how would a cheapie woodruf key for the crank pulley do big time damage to the engine assuming it broke? Just curious.

Is there anywhere other than the dealership that I can get a woodruf key? I went to the auto parts store and they sell that variety pack of keys... and I bought one. :3d_frown: None of them really have a good fit. They thickest one still wobbles a little on the pulley. Do they ones you...

The members have spoken. I'll get that done. Thanks.

I'm basically gonna go with my T4 T04e "57", and hopefully make around 450rwhp with it. I don't expect to make much more than that. Is balancing the rotating assembly worth the money, or not? It's not like I'm trying to spin this 7m to the moon. Yeah, or nay?

I've heard apex seals go out on rotary motors around 75k miles. You'll be looking into a rebuild soon on that thing. Go to some kind of RX7 forum and search about apex seals failing. Good luck. Oh, and that car being non-turbo will have you wanting more. So you'll be turbocharging that car...

What exactly is your budget? You mentioned you don't want to spend a $1000 to fit T4 in. Well just to put it in you could just buy: Manifold compatible with your HKS WG: If that 60-1 has a tangential turbine housing I think you'll have to buy a spacer for clearance issues. Find out which...