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You're welcome ;) FYI - the #1 and #2 killers of hydraulic systems (like an auto tranny) is heat and crap in the fluid. The ATF cooler on the Supra is adequate at best and the screen in the pan for filtration is not very good. Adding a filter to the system is one of the best things you...

LOL...see what happens when I don't have coffee in the morning ;) JJ is correct...it's psi on the oil pressure.

7.6 quarts is a dry fill...1.7 quarts for a drain/refill. Here is what you really want to do though ;) You will need a helper or two and about 10 quarts of fluid. Dex II is no longer available...Dex III is fine to use. I use Castrol ATF. Take a look at the tranny on the exhaust...

1) That oil pressure is normal for a stock oil system. BTW - it's in/hg not in/lbs ;) 2) Clicking could be several things: - Valves out of clearance spec - Check the other pulleys, especially the AC clutch and tensioning pulley. - Aftermarket cam gears? - The dampner is torqued to 195...

Precisely my point...some folks seem to think you can install a 3' downpipe, install a new intake, shim the CT26 and then put on a NA intake cam. Doesn't work that way ;) Cams are one of the last things you want to do with a head to get that remaining flow through the motor...and a NA cam is...

That's probably a better way to put it...haven't seen an increase in peak that much though (15-20 HP here). Those numbers are close to Dyno variation from day-to-day and the increase in peak is going to depend on the tune (as it would with any cam). I'm not 100% convinced the increase in...

From what I've seen, the GE cams shift the power band to the left. You get more low end, but lose on the high end.

You want to run at thermostat to get the ECU out of warm-up enrichment as quickly as possible. The folks that don't run one do not understand how the system works in this car. It won't overheat, but it will run rich until the coolant gets to the temp range above.

I would use -8 min.

You will likely have to strip the Viton coating off (Acetone or paint thinner & a scrub pad). When clean, apply a good coat of copper spray to replace the Viton and it should be good to go.

QFT ;)

Can you store the car and put it on hold?

And a Titan (Cometic) I recently saw had it too...

And if it's doing this ^^^ A re-torque is not going to fix it...the head has to be removed.

Got a funny feeling we'll be reading a new thread soon..."My MHG didn't Seal - WTF!?!"

Merged threads ;) Congrats man!

The heater coolant feed line is at the back of the head and also has a big banjo fitting feeding coolant to a small 90 deg hose to the coolant hardline on the block exhaust side. It's either the heater feed hose where it connects to the fitting or the 90 deg hose. Either is bad and needs to be...

Stock heat range should work well for that ;)

Yep! Same here ;)

That's why I'm running iridiums now actually...when I get the FFIM set-up installed, it's back to the coppers. With all the extra parts to remove gone, it'll be a snap to change plugs.