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Let me refresh your memory concerning the sequence of your problem: Post #6 Post #7 Post #8 Post #10 No mention of ECU codes...response to fuel pressure. Sure looks like you're ignoring the significance of ECU codes to me. Post #11 Post #13 Don't even ask what the codes...

Read the posts on RP in this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768 RP oils have always been formulated for the racing crowd...the "regular" RP oils have an additive pack that meets API certification, but is still not as stout as other synthetic oils out there...

So let me get this right...we as moderators/SME's should tolerate stupidity, bad information, poor problem description even though it turns into a frustrating waste of time? We should always play the "20 question game" to make sure the person with the problem provides accurate info and do...

Before you yank the motor, consider using an OEM composite HG w/ your ARP bolts. Much more forgiving on RA, good to ~15 psi all day, and a lot less expense over all. A lot of guys on here run the stock HG at the 350-400 HP level with NP and it will last clamped down with ARP bolts. Just give...

That is made by Exhaust Depot: http://www.exhaustdepot.net/edbol3higflo.html I have one...passes emissions NP and flows well.

Personally, if I were to go the piggyback route it would be a MAFT-Pro...it also allows you to switch to speed density, eliminating the AFM. You still need a WB O2. Fuel mods to make your HP goals: Walbro pump, 550's, and AFPR.

In any case, using the same size pistons will likely have the same result if piston-to-wall clearance is too big.

Clint - Where did he get that done? :naughty:

Jay Marks Toyota in Houston? That's who I use...excellent discount.

Any rivet that touches the block deck? You bet it needs to be removed or what happened to you will occur...it prevents the seal. Hope you learned something about relating to the more experienced guys around here...or am I still "a flipping insane idiot...." Gotta remember attitude goes a...

Here's the FAQ for a Cometic MHG (like I said, the Titan is a rebranded Cometic): http://www.cometic.com/faq.aspx Note that Cometic also recommends no additional sealer (like copper spray) be used. Something else I just thought of since your MHG did not seal from the beginning (High RA...

When looking at RA smaller number = smoother...in this case, 50 RA or less is what you want. You used 75 ft/lbs w/ moly for the ARP bolts...that is what ARP calls for on the spec for an aluminum head. It should not be your problem unless your torque wrench is way out of calibration. IJ...

As are ARP head bolts. The block AND head deck surfaces have to meet a minimum 50 RA smoothness for a Titan MHG (it's actually a Cometic). If not, you risk it not sealing properly.

Sounds like you might be dealing with morons at that AZ Rick ;) Consider Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30...if I can't get GC, that is what I'd use ;)

Doesn't matter...the JDM harness is still too short. A USDM manual tranny harness will be needed for the '90 ECU and you'll have to swap over several of the sensors on the motor to the '89+ versions from your old motor...the plugs are different.

Yes, the accordion hose one needs to be there to give crank case pressure a place to go when the intake manifold is under boost pressure. You're dealing with metered air here (post AFM) and you don't want a pirate air to rear it's ugly head and cause idle problems. The mini-filters are...

Yep...you got the idea ;)

The bottom nipple is a drain...it's blocked or connects to a stopcock valve. The two nipples on top are what I'm talking about above...the one connected to the cam covers needs a line inside (below the wool), close to the bottom. Don't use the steel wool you usually see...the stuff I'm...

Yeah, looked at it closer and I think you're right. Maybe a synthetic fiber on the lower half? Looks interesting though...wonder how well it works ;)