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<<<< LMAO ::dunce::

MAFT Confusion ;)

Shaeff - You mean that little thingy at the top of the diagram?

+1 for a wideband O2 ;) And the MAFT-Pro!

You did read this in the other thread...right? Last Post - 7m Blown head gasket Cylinder #1 #6 Pretty sure the link will answer most of your questions. ;) Bowser - The torque spec is very dependant on the lube used on ARP's hardware. He should just follow the spec sheet vs a "guess"...

On the intake side...drain to the pan: - Between #1 & #2 cam caps - Between #5 & #6 cam caps There is also a vent tube for the space between the front timing cover, forward of the #1 cap On the exhaust side...drain to the pan: - Aft of the #6 cam cap I looked at the head/block I have...

Jay - Did you break this motor in like we discussed? And did you decide what oil to use after the break-in (a syn I assume)?

22 in/lbs...not ft/lbs

You guys need to read a few of the earlier posts in this thread ;)

I misunderstood...I thought you were talking about a cam gear dowel. My bad.

I would look behind the timing cover behind the crank 1st.

Read post #4 & #10: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65572

That looks much better ;) What size are the lines? - From the cam covers to the can - From the can to the TB/accordion hose

Prolly easier to cut the oil fill neck off another cover. Cut a hole to fit in the exhaust side cover and weld. The problem I see is the covers are castings and might not weld too well...IJ would know on this one ;)

Might want to get another cam cover with the oil cap, remove the crankcase vent, and weld the vent shut for the passenger side. It's going to be a PITA adding oil the way it is now. ;) Edit: IJ beat me to it! And never mind...the cam cover mounting holes don't line up to swap....just looked.

Hate to let ya'll in on this, but farmers have been doing the same thing in the USA for years. ;) I'm with you Jon - the Elk I harvest every year keeps my freezer full.

Actually not a bad idea...shake several times till clean. Then rinse out a couple times with ethanol (not methanol) which is hygroscopic and should remove any residual water. Denatured alcohol (ethanol w/ methanol add) will work too. That works too!

75 ft/lbs on a stock HG *should* be plenty. Keep something in mind (no offense to your friend), don't assume the previous HG was installed correctly. When you pull it, check the block deck for flatness (head too). Check the head thickness as well...uncut stock is 116mm from deck to cam...

PM tubbie...he has all kinds of stuff (harness connectors) like that.

Alright then ;) A couple assumptions based on reading this...LMK if I'm correct: - You want to run speed density of the MAFT and eliminate the AFM - You want the MAFT to control boost First: - Get your stock injectors, get them cleaned and installed. - To fix code 51 is a simple...