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I do believe suprarich (Rich - SIP Racing) has the ATI's in stock...shoot him a PM. And, it is a better damper than stock (about 5 lbs lighter) and is cheaper than a stock new one ;)

Depends on what you do with the car and they "can" glow plug ;) Like I said, long, hard (high speed) runs or a series of short WOT (drag racing) runs with little time in between. For the majority, it's not a problem. The other issue is iridium is not as effective conductor (both heat and...

Gonna have you doing oil analysis before it's over Clip ;)

You're getting there Seth ;)

The port for the fuel return line (J tube) is on the bottom of the AFPR. Looks like you have it hooked up to one of the two inlets. http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/pdf/13109.pdf Does that J tube have the restrictor drilled out?

Those welds are gorgeous ;)

NGK Copper spark plug 2330 (BCPR6ES) .032" gap NGK Copper spark plug 3330 (BCPR7ES) .032" gap - 1 step colder NGK Iridium spark plug 5689 (BCPR6EIX) .032" NGK Iridium spark plug 5690 (BCPR7EIX) .032" - 1 step colder The above copper plugs are equivalent to the Autolites. Iridiums will...

Autolite 3923 plugs are about 1/8" shorter than the stock spec...this can cause arcing due to the plug not fully seating on the plug wire. Had the the exact same thing happen w/ MSD wires. Swap over to NGK's and it will be gone ;)

Yes it can using a faux carbon key and welding...it will need to be turned. If it's a 7M crank (vs 6M) I'd look in to doing it if the rest of the crank is in good shape...7M cranks are getting hard to find. I'd get new keys ;)

Depends ;) If you want to keep stock compression ratio, you need to know how much material was removed from the head and block decks and add both values in mm to the stock HG thickness (1.37mm compressed). Using a thicker MHG will lower CR.

The ECU looks for 176-210 deg F...below that, it's in warm-up enrichment...above that, it pulls timing.

Try clicking the link sport...

Get a 19mm socket and a breaker bar, put it on the crank bolt and turn it over a couple of times. Just to be sure it didn't lodge itself in a rod.

Diamond paste is muuuchhh faster...IJ recommends start with a 40, finish with a 15 on a freshly machined block deck. Make sure the block is flushed clean really well when done...you don't want either finding it's way into the moving parts ;)

Kotu - The TRSM is your friend ;)

Step 15.2 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=MT&P=5

The internal tooth type is better for this application. ;)

Not if you use star washers under the head of the fastener, between it and the grommet ;)

Did you remove the shifter fork?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=032 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=15 ;)