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I'm a believer in a VOA to get a baseline on the oil before it goes in the motor. That way you can see what metals are already in the oil and it's TBN.

Either will work...you want to check the syn version to see if it includes friction modifiers in the formula, I know the dino version does not. If your LSD has a lot of miles on it, I would go with the dino version.

I seriously hope you're not considering an engine swap based on how it sounds :3d_frown:

And make very sure the rings are gapped properly ;)

Heehee...all so true ;) You been flying to ORD lately...sounds like one of their lines :biglaugh:

Me or the OP JJ? ;) Engine Restore is full of copper and lead in an uber high viscosity base carrier oil. These are the same two metals you see showing on an oil analysis as "wear metals"...as mentioned, it's a placebo effect. You believe, and you see what you want to see. My advice...

On '87-'88 turbos the HAC sensor in on the rail where the glove box screws into...has a plug with 2 wires...its black and says HAC on it. '89+ ECUs have it built in.

Amsoil is a good oil...depending on what weight you put in, it should work well. Any improvement you see is due to using this oil. I would not have use the Engine Restore though, it's snake oil ;)

Basically the Pure Power filter is a conventional full flow filter that used a woven stainless media. As such, it will never filter out the smaller particles in your oil....you simply can't get the mesh small enough. The marketing on this product states that your usual paper media This is...

^^^ Not too sure where you come up with that one...the alcohol content would have to be a pretty high percentage. If you want to raise the octane on pump gas, read this thread...all of it: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17442

Funny...2nd step says check tranny codes. IJ told you to do a manual shift test in post #2, I told you to check the codes in post #6. I wonder where we came up with it :rolleyes:

Quake - I'm not as concerned with your oil at ops temp vs what it's doing at start-up (cold). One of the dangers of running a thick oil is cavitation at the pump...especially cold. RP 20W-50 is one of the thickest 50W oils out there, especially at temps below 40 deg C. If you don't want to...

It's female? :biglaugh: (jk...couldn't help myself) Seriously, it could be the preload on the ring gear is not set right. Or it could be the gear oil you're using...what are you using? Are you getting any clatter at all in low speed turns?

Before you start replacing solenoids...the TSRM has a series of manual shift tests like IJ said...do them. It will also throw ETC codes...check them.

That depends on the condition of the motor and the use of the car (track time?), but if it's good and you're not too hard on it, you can go 8K on GC easy with a filter change at the 4K point. Just add make-up oil at the filter change. I would recommend a UOA...it will tell you if you have...

I let about a quart drain, then fill the bottle. Use Black Stone's bottle and be very careful when you open to fill...don't touch the inside or let anything but oil get in it. For UOA's between changes, this makes it easy: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38929

The squirters function at ~40 psi...if one or more stick open, yes you will have a loss of pressure.

The fill recommended by Toyota is adequate. Unfortunately, we as enthusiasts, do things with a touring car that wasn't really in the design equation for it. Take a look at the Group A pan, does it look like it has a bit more capacity? ;) You would have to add several quarts before you'd...

I always run a quart (liter) over the full mark shown on the dipstick. This is after the filter has a chance to fill. Excellent "insurance' from ever getting low and/or uncovering the pick-up due to slosh. There is no downside to doing it either.

ANY straight weight oil, except a 30W for initial break-in. Mobil 1, because Exxon is a skum sucking, lying, greedy bunch of bastards ;)