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This is the position of the CPS rotor at base timing...i.e. the crank set pointing at zero and cam gears set at the indexes. You would have other issues vs a high idle if yours was set otherwise. The most common cause of a high idle is a pirate air...i.e a leak in the vac lines that connect...

It should look like this: Make sure the crank is pointing at "zero" and both cam gears are aligned to the index mark on the back plate.

Fomblin!?! :aigo:

Nah...we just like more "permanent" solutions ;)

K&N is actually crap...flows good, but doesn't catch dirt for squat. Dry filters are the way to go...AEM is making a good synthetic media dry filter.

^^^ That's how I'm going to do it next time ;)

You can, but why even use the Type II at all. The single circut is much more simple and uses less hose. The only reason i even mentioned the Type II is I have seen it done that way...had the same thoughts about it too ;)

Piston slap should have quieted down by then...unless it's really, really severe. Guess you'll have to pull it...it's got to be in the oil system some where.

Well...it was a thought. That is a big piston to bore for coated pistons...it's going to take them a while to heat up and expand. On my Ross pistons, the slap takes 15-20 minutes of constant driving to completely go away for the same reason and same clearances, but mine are not coated. What...

Ahhh...good point! Good ole piston slap?

It could be a completely different cause...you'll need to pull the bottom end to see. Pay attention to the holes in the main bearings...are the oil holes lined up and there was no shift in the bearing. The mains, did they show any damage like this? And, did all the rod bearings show the...

The top pics look like cavitation erosion caused by air bubbles combined with debris in the oil. Both show signs of debris damage. The shiney spots along the edges point to excessive shoulders on the crank journals. Do they all look like this? Was assembly lube used? Did you pack your oil...

This is starting to feel like an excercise in pulling teeth....

^^^ Had a cap Tig welded on mine. Blowing a freeze plug will do the same thing and it won't show an overheat (at least on the gauge).

I'd be very careful using the Red Line Water Wetter...with some coolants, it has a tendency to slime/gunk up the system. Toyota Red coolant is one of them ;)

Geez...get off your behind and Google it. It's the 1st hit. Or, if that's too difficult...use the search feature here.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=9 Or just get a new one...I suspect your cap is not allowing coolant to be pulled back into the rad when it cools down. Or, the line from the coolant resv bottle is blocked. If you pull the thermostat, cut the jiggle...

Dino = minerial oil = pumped from the ground Synthetic = man-made

I'd take a look at the rad cap too ;)

Diesel oils are heavy duty engine oils (HDEO) designed to take the beating a diesel motor puts on it...typically they contain a healthy dose of ZDDP as an anti-wear additive. They also have chemistry that handles particulates (soot) very well. Most are in the 40W multigrade range and carry an...