Quake - there's lots of ways to crack a nut ;)
What I understand your saying here is you've opened up your bearing clearances to handle the 50W...this is one of the very few times you will hear me say a thicker oil is more appropriate, but you better have the rest of the oil system built to...
Very nice...but, didn't answer the question. What did you do to prep the motor to run honey for oil?
Rod Knock? No theories here...two reasons account for 90% of them IMO:
- BHG, followed by running the motor with coolant in the oil
- Running the engine low on oil
0.0015" is at mid...
Castrol European Formula (German Castrol) 0W-30 - Get this at AutoZone
Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30
Amsoil Signature Series (SSO) 0W-30
Amsoil Synthetic (ASL) 5W-30
LOL...amazing how all this intertwines huh Duane, regardless of the engine. ;)
John - I would seriously like to see that...it follows my intention on the new motor I'm building to a "T".
LOL...you're well on the way ;)
LOL...I'm with ya there. I'm going to keep repeating it...just feels like "shoveling sand in the surf" sometimes. But, it was good to see a bunch of guys chime in that are "getting it".
One thing to keep in mind about Red Line, its chemistry is "agressive" toward certain...
Well...not entirely on board. ;)
I should probably add that Red Line is a great oil for forced induction engines due to it's shear and high temp resistance. Most of the UOA's I've seen on Red Line are the 1st ones after a switch...how much of that is due to the switch vs what was going on...
Yep and here's an article from a couple years ago about Toyota promoting the use of lighter weight oils to help improve gas mileage in the Asian market:
Lube Report Article
It's interesting that it alludes to the difficulty of changing the mind set that lighter oils are a better alternative...
Not to mention your gas mileage ;)
That's what kills me about the Eneos claim that using their 5W-50 increases HP...it defys the principles of fluid dynamics.
And these "results" are? And what is the reasoning for using a 5W-50?
I'm not entirely against using a thicker oil (I do think a 50W multigrade is too thick), but accommodations should be made to the motor to do so...like looser bearing clearances, -10 lines, an accumulator to provide flow...
Your "friend" must not know how an open bearing (like the ones on a crank) actually work. If he did, he would know that oil flow through the bearings provide better cooling and hydrostatic separation of the bearing surfaces than the boundary layer lubrication afforded by a thick oil. Not to...
Exxon is not making enough profit on gasoline, so they're raising the price of the mediocre Grp III oil they sell as a "synthetic".
There's no way I'd pay that for Mobil 1 oil. Given that this company misrepresents what it uses for base stocks leaves a bad taste too...I do not do business...
^^^ Used to secure the bracket for the line pressure up cable on an auto tranny.
I donno...maybe there is a screw missing...somewhere ;)
(don't think it's on the TB though)
I have a novel idea...How about looking in the TSRM to determine what part/circuit generates this code?
Hint: It's not likely it's the ECU and Ne is one of the signals the ECU uses to acomplish basic ignition timing advance ;)
If you're referring to RC Engineering 550 low impedance (Lucas) injectors...they are a direct fit on a 7M, but you have to swap out the harness clips. RC sells quality injectors...I use them. Always have any injectors tested for flow before installation...if used, I'd have them cleaned too...
Geez! :3d_frown:
You can install the EGR valve with the motor in the car...hopefully you have small, nimble hands ;)
I did it, but it's not fun...if the EGR cooler is missing, it becomes a real PITA. Putting one in is going to depend whether a plug or a block-off plate was used on the...
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