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I would guess the crank ends of the rods are a bit big ;)

Personally, if I were going for 700 HP+, I'd run 3 1/2" from the turbo back...you'll need a new CAT. I also think you can meet your goal using 3" pipe to the CAT. Depends on what you want to spend...it's going to be more difficult fitting the larger tubing from the turbo down too. I'd put...

To me, there's not a lot of an advantage to route the PVC this way. The vac produced per above is not very strong...it will work, but is way below the vac produced at the TB. Plus, you will need a one-way check valve in the line from the cam cover to the venturi at the exhaust to make damn...

Yep...3" to the CAT. The KISS principle applies ;) Bung wise, a foot or so down from the turbine exit will keep you well clear of any excess heat issues for a WB O2. Just mount in a place that you can get to easy.

;)

Bigger steering wheel = more leverage on a non-PS rack.

Ok then...How about 100 ft/lbs? More is better, right? Heck, lets go to 120 ft/lbs ;) I hope you see my point. And it's not the preload that's a problem...it's expansion from heat that aluminum experiences vs steel that causes a deformation/warping and causes the bolts to stretch...

Then you, of all people, should not be saying that a 19-20% over torque on an aluminum head is "not a big deal" :3d_frown: You should also know that the lube used has a big impact on the torque value as well.

Only if you think the ARP engineers have NFI what they are doing...I guess ARP saying "Do Not Over Torque" is put out for some unknown, BS reason that should be routinely ignored. What's the point in over torquing? You are cutting into the 25% yield strength safety margin ARP has spec'ed...

Your right...it is the back: A-3 B-2 C-1 I'm holding a connector in my hand ;)

Is the resv pushing coolant out the over flow, or is it pulling the coolant into the rad? If the latter, is it happening when you shut the car off? Have you pressure tested the coolant system? BTW - you over torqued those ARP head bolts by 19% ARP spec for head bolts on an aluminum...

A-3 B-2 C-1 edit: Fixed!

Thread closed...reference the GB thread above.

Ceramic coat the downpipe and the grade steel used becomes moot...I suggest a 2000 deg rated, black coating.

It's going to take a bit for all the air to cycle out of the system...this assumes the rad cap and thermostat is in good shape. The rad should pull coolant out of the resv when it cools down. A couple questions on the HG job: - You torqued ARP bolts to 89 ft/lbs using moly as lube? - Was...

Build your own ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838

Thread moved

1st - you need to look in the TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/ 2nd - Learn how to search: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64940 3rd - Then you ask questions based on specific things that come to mind AFTER you've done some reading. Thread closed

The "green" KS and "grey" KS found on the different year cars (as Justin said) are the same. The highest voltage output is at 7 kHz. Toyota did use two types of KS for this generation TCCS EFI cars...one generates high volatage over a narrow vibration band, the other generates high voltage...

Wait a minute!! I didn't get any cash out of this! :biglaugh: