Search results

Time for a hard pipe replacement ;) At least you got quite a few other things fixed during the search. It's amazing the short-cuts "professional mechanics" will take to get the car out in the interest of making $$$. I guess it's job security...they hope you'll come back and drop more cash...

What was it?

Might want to read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41775 And this: http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/ If you want to use an average hydrocracked Grp III oil (that's not even a true synthetic) that's way too thick for most 7M's out there, that's up to you. I certainly...

I'd run all the above...just make sure you don't run too rich.

The only problem with switching soon, is you risk delaying the seating of the rings. Plus, it's a waste...you should be changing oil a few times in the 1st 1500 miles, don't want to dump expensive syn oil.

German Castrol ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38768 (also, info on why Mobil 1 is not that great) The brand is not as important as the weight. As thin as you can for start and a 30W for ops range temps...i.e a 0W-30. The motor oil link in my sig is a very good...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

The code 12 is caused by the CPS or it's circuit (most likely wiring in your case) or a starter signal circuit. The trouble areas are more varied for codes 25 & 26: - Injectors or the circuit - Fuel pressure - Air Flow Meter - Air Intake System - O2 sensor or the circuit - Ignition...

Makes a *tiny* difference ;)

Good luck getting the copper HG to seal...it is difficult to properly O-ring the 7M due to how close the cylinders are to each other. I wish you success. Concerning compression, static CR is not as important as dynamic CR...this is affected by the cams you use and is what he is referring to...

The driveshaft I got from ShaftMasters is balanced beautifully...read the review link I posted previously (post #12).

Knock sensors are kinda like "explosion detectors" in the cargo hold of an airliner though...they detect it and you're already screwed ;)

And how much of the time is your motor in boost vs just good ole cruise? The 18-20 inHG this motor pulls for 85% of the time most of us drive is far superior to the vac source from the accordion hose or from what can be achieved at the downpipe. I have a hard time understanding why...

It's not going to help ;)

Yeah, those look pretty bad...especially the head. The head *may* be able to be fixed with a line hone...the cams, I don't think so. What does the rest of the cam journals look like? It's a crap shoot. If you get a new head, just measure the lobes on your turbo intake cam and compare to the...

And likely trashing your CAT as a result ;)

The heads are identical, as stated, the intake cams are different for the turbo. There's no way I know of that you can tell which cam it is unless you measure the lobes. If you already have a turbo head, just swap the cam into the new head. A couple things that you want to consider when...

The above statement illustrates ignorance and the kind of "group think" that gets guys in trouble working on this motor. And you ignored the remaining discussion that followed Adam's initial statement...exactly what I was getting at when folk start making up specs as they go. It doesn't make a...

That's odd, I've used this same adapter and same fittings as you have with no problems. It looks like you could lengthen the hose so the fittings would point down vs forward, giving you the room you need. The 90 deg NPT-AN fitting could work too, but you would need a straight hose fitting to...

No... Read This