Search results

It's the CPS!!!! Just kidding. Actually, it wouldn't hurt to try jiggling the wires coming out of the cps if they're a bit crispy with age, they sometimes loose contact. But it does sound like an IC hose is completely loose or something.

Yeah, you can't come up in here, and just say- "Once upon a time, they all lived happily ever after- Yayyy!!!" It just doesn't make for a good story. Where's the plot? Where's the character development? The internal struggle with right and wrong?

Ok, I hope one of you guys can sort it out and post a definitive summary on this.

What he said. Check the 'big' fuses in the engine compartment, including the fusible link- the black looped-looking wire. Make sure it's not melted, or crispy.

I love 'happy endings'... I swear- every time I read a thread title that says ..."rebuild, but won't start"...I just wanna post CPS!, without even reading it, because it seems like it's the culprit 99% of the time. :-)

I mean the rear of the front subframe.

Wow- thanks for the expanded explanation. So- For a US 88 car, going to a US 89+ dimmer, What pin do i need to change? I see that you have: 1 3 4 ...but what does that exactly mean? I get rid of pin #2 and move the others up?? It's not clear to me.

You know- I've had my '88 for 15 yrs now, and never gotten around to doing the rewire. I just read through it, and am a bit confused; why do we have to cut and splice 3 different wires? I'm thinking that the relay is triggered by the lowbeam circuit, and therefore drops off when headlights are...

I'm getting the impression that the pic shows the rear of the subframe hanging down- is that the only section that needs bolting up? Just go to Toyota(or call) and let them look it up.

Originally Posted by supraguy@aol "Hey there- I don't know if you've seen the thread in the general forum, but I had asked if the 89+ dimmer was plug & play with the 87-88 harness, and I was told that the pinout was slightly different, and that you might know what change was required. So I was...

Hooray for OEM crank pulley! Hooray for beer! but I digress.... Sounds like you might just be off on the cps position. Once you have the pulley in place, it'll be easier to check. Keep us posted.

Well, just got a pm back from Mr. Lange, and he says the later style dimmer is plug n' play. So...yay me. : )

I know that engine harnesses for pre-89 are getting more scarce. Not sure about interior pieces, but that's all that comes to mind as being possibly difficult to get

By 'plate', I assume you're actually talking about the clutch disc? I've never seen much wear on a pressure plate. Anyway, you can replace just the disc, but at 375hp, you'll probably slip a stock clutch.

Why don't you start by looking through the Supramania list of approved vendors?? There's quite a few.

Yeah. I think the Cometic/ Titan comes in a 1.4mm.

The UR underdrive pulley is commonly reported to cause premature failure to a number of parts in the rotating assembly. The factory unit is somewhat dampened by its rubber isolator. This absorbs much of the engine's vibration. the UR crank pulley does not do this at all. Plus, you're really not...

I doubt it has anything to do with the ps pump. As you'll probably hear from a number of people soon, it sounds like a boost leak. Check all of the intercooler hoses for cracks, especially on the sides you can't normally see. A common one to crack is the compressor output hose, as it's closest...

It's certainly possible. You mean...you went inside to your computer, sat down, logged on, posted a thread...but didn't check your fuses?? : )

iridium lasts longer, but copper is better for turbo- more conductivity.