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MAFT baby- Yeah!!! LOL!- A MAFT or MAFT pro will eliminate the need for the LEX MAF, and allow an atmospherically-vented BOV. The easiest and cheapest cure is to have a recirculated BOV, like the original bypass valve was done. However, I don't think your model of BOV can be recirculated...

Yeah- for that color, I vote dark bronze.

As far as the dying at throttle-off, I would say it's your BOV. The car isn't set up to vent the bov to atmosphere. Hopefully I didn't misread anything you wrote, but using stock air metering(even the lex MAF) means that the air is metered, and then appropriate fuel is added. When you let off...

Thanks Afterdark! That's really a good look, IMO. That'll probably be what I go for- dark lower, light upper. I'll paint match the moldings to the lower as well.

As a habit, I always replace freeze plugs with a rebuild anyway. I like to remove the old plugs and make sure the coolant passages have no crud/ sediment in them.

On an almost unrelated note, I found a few knock sensors on Ebay back a couple of years ago out of a 90's Toyota 4Runner, and put them in since they were newer. If you ever have a knock sensor definitely go bad, you can use the 4runner's, just gotta splice in the newer connectors- and I figured...

Well, two-tone is an 80's thing, and I think it might be a nice variation in a world of one-tone cars. Hell- if bell-bottoms were able to make comeback...

Well, I do like that look too, for sure.

Hey guys- hopefully this request is in the right section; I was wondering if anyone had an actual pic, or can photoshop a pic, of a MkIII with a two-tone paintjob. Specifically, I'd like to see what the car would look like with a meteor gray lower body, and a light silver upper, divided at the...

LOL! I think 89supra7mgte is asking why IJ says to replace the injector clips! I mean really, IJ- why would I want to cut off and splice in new injector clips, just to verify rod knock?? :yelrotflm I think this was just a case of misunderstanding. IJ means that after you've unplugged...

I think it's a noise filter? Not sure though.

I switched from Intrax to Eibach as well. Rear sits slightly higher than w/ the Intrax's, and that's how I like it. Didn't notice much difference as far as stiffness goes- thought they were quite similar in that regard. They're both progressive.

The reinforced tab: Welded up the subframe crack:

Well, dunno if it was the old diff, or the crack, but the rear end 'clunk' that I used to get when I got on/let off the gas is totally gone. Happy happy, joy joy.

For $800 a pop? thanks, but mine seems to somehow be keeping in one piece.

Not a huge fan. It had its day back in the late 70's/ early 80's, but I feel it looks too 'clunky'. Having said that, I used to have one on my 77' 280Z. But I eventually took it off. It might look better with the rear side windows louvered as well, but still not my favorite look.

Used to have the MSD's. after about a year, the plastic/resin boots began to get brittle and disintegrate.

Thanks Poodles- I'm going to try the double washer reinforcement, and see if it'll last. If not, I guess I'm headed to BIC. The diff is not rebuilt really, as I didn't mess with the clutchpack, or the bearings(they seemed to be in smooth, quiet shape). All I did was replace the three seal and...

So my buddy is driving across town(true friend) to weld this up for me. I also removed the control arm, and am going to have him weld the tab back together, and reinforce it with a washer welded to each side of the tab. Hopefully, that'll give it the strength it needs.

Yeah- there's A LOT you need to check. Differential mounting bolts, broken swaybar endlinks/ tabs, subframe bolts/ bushings, etc. I just found out today that my subframe has a 3" crack above the front differentail mount, and I had a broken endlink tab. Getting both welded in an hour. See here...