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That's a pretty unique look, Doom- I like it.

Got it. Thanks RazoE. PS- If I want a white-white color, do I select natural white or cool white? I'm not looking for a really blue-ish white.

I'm still a bit confused on which version of 194's/ 74's you guys are talking about: these? or these? or these? or maybe these? perhaps these? or these? or lastly(I HOPE)- these? Please lemme know which ones you guys have used, and how to avoid hotspots/...

I believe that the relay will get power during cranking and for a second or two after. But if the car does not start, the power to the pump drops off.(JetJock can tell you for sure) I would say that if you're sure the current pump is bad (which it does sound like), replace it, then see if all...

I'm not opposed to grill mesh, but it needs to be an automotive product, not that Home Depot crap made to keep chickens in. preferably a black-chrome style finish so its weather-resistant, and slightly subdued.

Um. I don't really get what you were trying to say- Do you like the H&R/ Tokico setup or was it too stiff? Or do you like the C8 or is that one too stiff??

Failure14- I'm not sure, but I think he was trying to say that his idle fluctuated as much as 200-400rpm. And Young gun was probably referring to the TPS. You can test your TPS, as per the TSRM. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=100

To get the retainers and valve locks in, some people use the pvc pipe method; That is, you get a piece of pvc pipe that's roughly as large in diameter as the retainer, and you cut a window in the side so you can press down on the spring/ retainer, and then reach the locks to push them into...

I have an Autometer, and as a BIC said, mine sits at 2psi with the engine off. So I know that my boost is actually a bit lower, and my vac is actually a bit higher, than indicated.

1. Make sure that your rod and main bearings are within tolerances, and not loose tolerances. 2. You say it's a 7mge, and not a 7mgte, so no oil squirter bolts to worry about. 3. Replace your oil pump. I suggest a 7mgte oil pump- it's a higher capacity unit than the NA. 4. You can also buy a...

So...does this go on record as the oldest thread resurrection in SM history?

Re-pin was just as discussed. It took literally 2 minutes to swap the pins, and the dimmer works perfectly. What wasn't mentioned is which pin is #1,2,3 and 4. Looking at the harness plug open end with the plug's lock 'latch' on top, they are: 1 2 3 4 Easy swap, thanks guys.

Lol! great.... I just got my dimmer in today, and about to de-pin the harness. I will post my results.

I like that, Cajun- Is it just regular paint?

Well, it took 22+ years for the oem to blow, so....not bad.

True- E code means ECE approved, which is for the other side of the pond.

The E-codes use H-4 bulbs, so they can actually be one in the same. The E-code housing provides the proper(and legal) light pattern for the US. http://www.classicgarage.com/hel20rech4he.html But I went cheap, and bought these: http://store.classicgarage.com/withbulbshield.html They're still...

Thanks again Jeff. I'm expecting a 90+ dimmer in the mail on Monday. Hopefully, I'll be able to report good news then. :icon_bigg

I've never hit FC in first gear. I think that with more load in second gear, you get more airflow thru the AFM, and you're boosting in 2nd longer than first. Dunno if I explained that quite right.

Ummm... Adampecush had commented on Dumbo's picture of his relocation, saying he shouldn't use a stainless line right next to the alternator. THAT'S what it had to do with this thread- So it really wasn't such a "noob" queastion, since someone else had already brought it up.