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That's not good :( Check your crank dampner and make sure it's on tight.

So the SAFC controls timing now too George? ;) (I love the way you younger guys rationalize what you do) Passing is one thing (I have all kind of tricks to "pass")...having a NOx emission that's 1/3 the standard like I just did today with my Toyota truck is another. Hey...it's your lungs...

You're welcome Scott ;) Either that or source a JDM ECU or go with a standalone.

Learn to use the TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&P=4 Likely the same issue...the sender is disconnected. Location in the bottom pic.

Rude? Excuse me? You purchased the car didn't you...knowing it was not there. If you call that rude, watch this: The USDM timing/fuel maps are programmed for the EGR in place. To run without the EGR, not only are you increasing NOx (one of the worst emissions there is), you are also...

As foolish as it is removing the EGR with a stock ECU, there's no wonder ;)

There's no point in tightening up studs past finger tight. What you did is a waste of time. ;)

Doing that would be incorrect and raise the value into the safety margin ARP designs for it's studs. Don't do it.

7/16 studs? The 7M uses M12x1.25 threads for their studs. The latest spec sheet I've seen spec's torque at 80 ft/lbs using moly or 120 ft/lbs using motor oil for lube. Sure you got the right studs?

Same oils for a W58...I use Red Line MT-90 in the W55 tranny on my Toyota truck ;) Next change I'm going with MTL...a bit thinner and the tranny doesn't have near the torque to handle from the R22 motor.

You should be proud of that oil system Jag...ya done good! ;)

If you had to park the car for a while outside, turning it off would be a good way to make sure no one decides to drive it away while you're gone ;)

Mobil 1 contains friction modifiers that is meant for LSD differentials. Syncromesh is way too thin for the R154....I would use Red Line MT90 or MTL. Pennzoil Synthetic 75W-90 GL4, Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90 GL4, Ford 75W-90 Synthetic Gear oil or Amsoil MTG 75W-90 are all good to use as well.

Thanks guys ;) For starters read the link to Dr Haas in my sig.

I did...it just gets old saying the same thing over and over. Especially in different threads on the same day ;) Makes me wonder sometimes...what a thermostat does is not exactly rocket science. Chris - it's not so much it will wash the cylinder walls down; warm-up enrichment is a function...

Bzzz...wrong ;) It depends on if the vac line is connected or not...with it connected, 30 psi is max. here's what the TSRM says: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=73 40 psi with vac connected is going to cause a rich misfire.

I think you should dump the filter and route the hoses where the catch can actually works. Look at the top thread in the Reference section.

Hence my comments about using a 50W multigrade on a motor with a stock system...the 7M oil system is fine for a stock motor. You start going into the high HP regime and you need to do some mods...the stock filter head is the 1st to go IMO and switch over to a thermostat controlled cooler...

If you are talking about me Jose, i have NEVER said Eneos was a bad oil or that it was snake oil. I want to make that very clear from the beginning. The problem I have with Eneos is the marketing...to say an oil will increase HP is pure rubbish. The company and some of it's dealers hype an...

Simple, but effective ;) Helps keep the thermostat from sticking due to pressure from behind it too.