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Drop your fuel pressure to 28-30 psi at idle w/ the vac line connected to the AFPR. You also might want to check your spark plugs and wires. What plugs are you using?

There's a really good reason why you don't want to use Royal Purple gear oil in a R154 or W58. Royal Purple Syncromesh is definitely not a good idea. There's a couple threads on both in the Lube section if anyone is interested as to why ;) This is correct...the add pack in RP engine oils...

It also got him banned...not for the shop subject, but the language he used. There was no confusion to the rest of the forum. Enough of this...thread closed.

On the A340E, yes you can...my tranny seems to work best with the ATF at 170-180 deg F. An option is to use a thermostat like you would on the oil system or an electric fan switched to come on at 160-180 degs. B&M makes a cooler fan combo that fits the bill. Jay - you can fit a cooler under...

When IPT built my tranny, they recommended this one: http://www.murphysautomotive.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=murphy&Product_Code=MU-0C-M7B&Category_Code=TRU-COOL-2 -or- This one...

You can go to 70 or slightly above if you wish Jay...most wrenches are only accurate to 2-3 ft/lbs anyway. Just don't go 10 above ;) And, thanks...that's good to know. It's something I've always wondered about...on the 7M ARP bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs due to the aluminum head. 2JZ...

Very likely it's the small 90 deg hose from the banjo fitting to the hard line surrounding the block -or- as previously mentioned, the heater feed hose to the HCV. Either is bad...if one of these hose blow, you will lose ALL your coolant in a very short time. Happened to me on the...

LMAO...Sir, I swear she told me she was 20! BTW Jay - I didn't know the ARP spec was 70 ft/lbs for the 1JZ (I assume using moly). Is the spec the same for the 2JZ motor? Just curious since you're using a IJZ head on a 2JZ block.

Do what you want Nash...that's not the way it is designed to work. A filter is just going to introduce pirate air into the system....in this case, unmetered air bypassing the AFM.

In that case, GC will work just fine...better actually due to the low temp characteristics.

^^^ Needs to spend some time browsing the Lube section ;) Gaboon did not say a "new" motor...you do want to break-in using a straight 30W. Switch to syn oil around the 1500 mile point.

Don't do that. Do a re-torque like you said, just don't go any higher than what your at now. To do a re-torque properly, you "crack" the nuts counter clockwise ~ 1/8 - 1/4 turn, then torque back to spec. In this case, go to 85 ft/lbs to keep the same force on the HG. Follow the TSRM...

:slap: LMAO! Thanks...I just sprayed my computer monitor with coffee!

<sigh> The more you torque above spec, the more you impinge on the safety margin ARP has spec'ed for their fasteners. ARP stud torque spec's are based on 75&#37; of their yield strength...over torquing can ruin the fastener or (worst case) cause failure. Especially on an aluminum head where...

That depends on the weight oil used...assuming a 0W-30 like GC, I would guess 15-20 psi at idle and 50-60 above 3000 RPM, both at at ops temp. Rod bearing clearance will also have an effect.

Lower grade dino oil will coke due to residual heat at shut down...the Grp III hydrocracked dino oils are much better at NOT doing this. The PAO (Grp IV) and ester (Grp V) oils are "true" synthetics...they do not coke. If you get deposits in your turbo oil passages form normal running, it's...

It should have little effect...keep in mind it's flow not pressure that keeps the bearings "floating" on the journals. If you're going to this extent, I would do every upgrade to the oil system in your budget to protect this investment. Shim the pump relief valve 5-7mm, replace the stock...

ShaftMasters (misc vendor section) makes an aluminum 2 piece for our cars...you might want to pull that DS out of the trash since they require the front solid end for a core ;) They also make a nice one piece if you're inclined to go that route.

Oil exits the rods along the outside edge of the bearings anyway...the grooves just direct the flow upward. They also allow tighter clearances with the same or better oil flow. If you think about it, the stock rods use the same concept...the oil spray hole on top of the shoulder on the crank...

I use Castrol European Formula (aka German Castrol) 0W-30 all year round in Arizona...it's already hit 39 deg C here. It's a Grp IV PAO oil (same as RP) and it's additive package is superior to Royal Purple IMO. You Canadian guys can get it at WalMart too ;)