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Are you running a high volume fuel pump?

Wrong Forum...moved.

Coolant temps need to be at where the ECU is "comfortable with"...like I said, that's 176-210 degs. Below that, you are in warm-up enrichment (open loop) that decreases as you approach 176 deg. Above that, the ECU pulls timing. Coolant temps is a major input to the ECU.

A 160 deg thermostat is way too low...all your doing is delaying the time it takes the engine to come out of warm-up enrichment. You want the coolant to get above 176 degs as soon as possible...normal operating range is 176-210 degs. This is where you want to be...lower coolant temps are not...

MTL and MT90 are very similar, MTL is just a thinner gear oil. The advantage I can see for MTL is less viscous friction due to it's thinner viscosity. In a basically stock car, it should help gas mileage wise. On a high HP car that sees track time and shock load to the tranny, different story...

X2

RazoE - A non-CA ECU will get rid of the EGR and secondary O2 codes....it should run fine as is assuming you have not done any other mods. You are going to have a problem passing CA emissions with no EGR though and the fuel/timing MAP is programmed on USDM ECU's with the EGR in place. A JDM...

A Lex AFM allows more air through (~25% more)...with 440 injectors you can run lean. That's why you use the 550 injectors...they counter balance the additional air with 25% more fuel. You're running a stock AFM with 550 injectors, you're correct...it should be rich, but your FP and AFR is...

Yes, that type thermostat...personally, I would go with a Mocal vs PermaCool. The air type cooler is more efficient and allows better control of temps. With a rad cooler, the best you are going to do is a temp above that of the coolant temperature. In a Supra rad, that's going to be 190-200...

AMS? Are you talking about an Amsoil product? Be more specific. Like I said, Red Line is an ester base stock. It's the best you can get. Van - Ester normally swells seals, PAO tends to shrink them. Additives are used in both to mitigate the effect. In the early days of PAO synthetics...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73624

Free of deposits = clean. And, that applies to an older motor too.

Based on a stock CT-26, gap them at .030". Might want to put a multimeter on your coils and test per the TSRM.

RP is a PAO based oil ;)

^^^ Old mechanics trick back in the day. Not necessary (or recommended) for a good modern oil, especially a PAO or ester based oil...these do an outstanding job keeping the engine free of deposits straight out of the bottle.

You nailed it...that would be my concern too. You could always reverse the connections to the tranny in the winter to tranny feed - air cooler - rad cooler - tranny return. That would help get the ATF up to temp faster in the winter too and keep it around 190 degs. Or, you could add a 160...

^^^ That will work ;) Did you hook it up before or after the stock rad cooler...i.e. is the return line to the tranny feeding from the rad cooler or this one?

Push type.

I wish Neo would publish more info on their oils...how do you know it's ester based? (ester is good stuff...Red Line is also ester based ;)) BTW - RP engine oil does contain a healthy dose of ZDDP (zinc) as an anti-wear additive. That's why the SBC crowd running flat tappet motors like it...

Those AFR's are very lean for idle...it should be in the 14.5-15.5 range. Did you reset the ECU by pulling the EFI fuse after you installed the Lex/550 combo? When you drop AFPR pressure, did the sputter go away or at least get better? Doesn't appear the plugs/wires are the problem. Did...