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As do I ;)

Yes, they are the Crower billet rods...they're fine and served well....I plan on keeping them ;) Pauter is a bit better quality IMO and offers a couple custom oiling options that peaked my interest. Grooves on the top, big end that spray oil up to the cylinder walls and underside of the...

Huh? Thermostat or thermometer? And, I don't understand why a pressure test would make it run hotter.

Might be for the ISCV...between the motor and the housing. Post a pic.

LMAO...You also said ARP studs ;) (those are 80 ft/lbs using moly for lube) Assuming stock head bolts...yes. Torque them to that value now...do a re-torque after at least 5 complete heat up/cool down cycles.

The motor should be between 180-210 deg F.

Torque the stock head bolts to 70-72 ft/lbs.

What are the specs for each car? I'm pretty sure it will be fine for the 3VZ (I run it in my R22 truck), but Hondas tend to run a thinner oil.

He also said ARP studs...they come with a spec sheet. THAT's what you use for torque, not what the latest value running on the forums.

Magnaflux checks for cracks. Hot tank = vat HKS Stopper is the best MHG there is. Use a Toyota oil pump. That line is ok...if you want the best, get the hardline from Arizona Performance (Arz) Use ARP stud spec for the torque...use moly for lube and it's spec.

Thing I would do: - Line bore using ARP main bolts and square deck to the bore - Get the rods magnafluxed too - Machine deck for a MHG...go for 30 RA - Make sure piston to wall clearances are exact...it depends on the pistons used - If the block is cleaned in a hot tank, you will have to...

Brent - Inside joke...JJ's pulling my leg ;)

Well...I guess I missed the sensitivity training that's required for the younger generation now and days. I just call it the way I see it ;) BTW - it's not a great idea to mix different weight oils. You really don't know what you end up with viscosity wise.

I've tested the opening temps of various thermostats, including the Motorad. Stant and OEM Toyota were the best concerning opening temps. The Motorad I tested opened up 15-20 deg F early. If you want to see what yours does, just get a 250 deg thermometer and bring some water up to boiling...

Good point...I was looking at it from a heat transfer perspective.

The only thing that *may* work is freon. The problem is directing it to where you need it. ;)

Teflon tape is fine for water/oil fittings. It's not for fuel. It should also have no effect on the temp readings since the sensor bulb is not covered. It could be a gauge accuracy issue. What make/brand thermostat is it?

If you guys are not getting to at least 180 deg (as measured at the water neck where the ECU temps sensor is) after warm-up, something is wrong. The stock ECU "looks" for 176 deg F to come completely out of warm-up enrichment...the amount of additional warm-up fuel decreases as coolant temp...

Agreed...keep on topic. There is one thing though about the way the catch can is plumbed in post #39...the TB fitting is capped off. You DO NOT want to do this. For the PCV system to work properly, it needs the vacuum supplied by the intake manifold. The accordion hose vacuum is weak and...