John, do you think the grooving will starve the top halve of the rod bearing of oil? Or do you think your oil system setup will provide enough flow to keep the rod floating on a thin layer of oil at all times?
Most bullet proof rods
- Thread starter suprabad
- Start date
Oil exits the rods along the outside edge of the bearings anyway...the grooves just direct the flow upward. They also allow tighter clearances with the same or better oil flow. If you think about it, the stock rods use the same concept...the oil spray hole on top of the shoulder on the crank end.
And, oh yeah, you can bet my oil system is going to provide plenty of flow
And, oh yeah, you can bet my oil system is going to provide plenty of flow
I like the idea of the oil grooves on the cheek of the big end of the rod on the Pauter's, and I agree the oil flow upward is a very good thing.
Any ideas on how this will affect oil pressure in a car that (let's face it) isn't known for it great pressure/oiling?
What are we talking about for a set of these bad boys (ballpark me)?
Any ideas on how this will affect oil pressure in a car that (let's face it) isn't known for it great pressure/oiling?
What are we talking about for a set of these bad boys (ballpark me)?
It should have little effect...keep in mind it's flow not pressure that keeps the bearings "floating" on the journals. If you're going to this extent, I would do every upgrade to the oil system in your budget to protect this investment.
Shim the pump relief valve 5-7mm, replace the stock filter head and go to a full flow thermostat controlled circuit, use -10 lines, larger stacked plate oil cooler, remote filter mount (dual mount if you want to use a Trasko bypass filter), replace the oil squirter bolts, make sure the block oil channels are thoroughly flushed, use a PAO or ester based oil (think about flow). On a high HP motor, an oil accumulator is a very good idea.
Shim the pump relief valve 5-7mm, replace the stock filter head and go to a full flow thermostat controlled circuit, use -10 lines, larger stacked plate oil cooler, remote filter mount (dual mount if you want to use a Trasko bypass filter), replace the oil squirter bolts, make sure the block oil channels are thoroughly flushed, use a PAO or ester based oil (think about flow). On a high HP motor, an oil accumulator is a very good idea.
jdub;1043302 said:
Good point about oil "flow".
I, like many (I suspect)...tend to think only in terms of oil pressure with little thought and/or understanding of flow.
I am curious though, what pressure would you expect to see on a motor with the mods you mentioned and the Pauter rods with the oil grooves on the big ends?
:icon_bigg
That depends on the weight oil used...assuming a 0W-30 like GC, I would guess 15-20 psi at idle and 50-60 above 3000 RPM, both at at ops temp.
Rod bearing clearance will also have an effect.
Rod bearing clearance will also have an effect.
jdub;1043272 said:Oil exits the rods along the outside edge of the bearings anyway...the grooves just direct the flow upward. They also allow tighter clearances with the same or better oil flow. If you think about it, the stock rods use the same concept...the oil spray hole on top of the shoulder on the crank end.
And, oh yeah, you can bet my oil system is going to provide plenty of flow
Didn't know that John, I learned something new today (haven't needed to tear down mine yet)
It just occured to me where I had heard of Pauter rods before.
As I recall (and it's been awhile) they were the hot set-up for the VW type III and IV motors back in the day when California look bugs etc. were popular on the street and strip and with the sandrail guys too.
As I recall (and it's been awhile) they were the hot set-up for the VW type III and IV motors back in the day when California look bugs etc. were popular on the street and strip and with the sandrail guys too.