Search results

Alrighty ;) Not too sure if I buy that one...especially since I just spent a nice chunk of cash knife edging and lightening a 7M crank about 6 lbs.

The 7M crank is fully counter weighted...it's a smoother running crank, but you can't rev it as high stock. The 6M is lighter and you can rev it higher. I wouldn't call the 7M crank "better for boost".

And many times there's more than one way to "crack a nut" ;)

The check engine light does not come on with a code 51 (TPS)...it is stored while active, you have to check for it.

Ian - I look at a dual filter head as a fluid manifold...the pressure provided by the oil pump is provided to both filter inlets. You are correct in that most of the flow will follow the path through the full flow filter, but there is still sufficient pressure available upstream of the filters...

The 5W-20 is pretty thin for a 7M, but it's been done (JetJock) with no problems on basically a stock engine. Your pressures are going to be lower than you're used to seeing. Take a look at the German Castrol 0W-30...excellent oil (PAO base) and cheaper than Red Line, especially when you catch...

The 1st one will only go 1000-2000 miles...it's going to filter out all the crap that's been floating around your motor for years. After that, 4000-5000 miles depending on the quality of the oil. Each motor is different...the filter element in a Trasko is essentially a small roll of TP. When...

That is correct...it really doesn't matter which position the Trasko is in. It's internal valve will only allow a small portion of oil through, most will be going through the Wix. The small amount that does go through the Trasko is filtered down to 1 micron...over time all the oil in the motor...

If you go with a remote filter head, swap over your cooler circuit to a full flow thermostat controlled cooler. Dump the stock filter head...your motor will thank you. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838 If you use a dual filter head, make one of them a Trasko bypass...

LOL...pulling the plugs is a LOT easier on the starter and wiring.

;)

Well, if it were me, I would take the head to a machine shop and have it looked over. Have it decked and consider a valve job, new seals, guides (if needed). Assuming you're using a stock HG, get the big stuff off with a scraper...then use a fine scotch bright pad to get the remainder. Block...

I did just the outside shields...the hole on each end was blocked to prevent any over-spray on the matrix. Heat retention has not been a problem, if anything, it heats up to it's efficient working temp faster. I also ceramic coated the heat shield that attaches to the underside of the car...

True...and the stock studs/nut back off too...the stock nuts are a flanged type. I use washers to help spread the clamping force from the nuts...I'm also using ARP flanged nuts and washers on my exhaust studs. Probably overkill, but they do not back off. There is a difference...

Hardened washers vs the cheap stamped type ;) Basically the same kind as you see on head bolts.

Yes, you should use washers...don't go cheap either. ;)

All jokes aside, you need to clarify what you want to do. Is this a HG job and you want to clean the head deck/pistons? Or, are you talking about a port/polish of the intake & exhaust ports? Be more specific/detailed as to what info you need.

Yep...my downpipe and CAT are ceramic coated. It helps tremendously.

First you gotta find a good working girl with references.... :biglaugh:

^^^ ;)