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http://blogs.discovery.com/criminal_report/2008/06/police-in-engla.html?dcitc=w01-101-ae-0004 :biglaugh:

^^^ Hmmm...take off 5.75 lbs and balanced within 1/10 of 1 percent (good to 10,000 RPM) including the weight of the rods, pistons, flex plate (bolts too) and dampner. Add on the nitride job and she's better than new (at least as near perfect as you can get) ;) Like IJ said...the best of...

A code 52 indicates a problem with the knock sensors or it's circuit...i.e. some sort of failure with either. Knock itself will not trip the code. You kinda have to look at the knock sensors as an "explosion detector"...by the time they have a chance to transmit to the ECU and the ECU to pull...

LOL...don't you think I would have posted that if it had an impact? :slap: I'm not holding any info back George "just to prove I'm right"...I could care less "who is right", but I do care "what is right". What I saw did not result from additional fuel (a rich mixture). Nice try, but adding...

That was me...I got 50-100 deg C (depending on RPM) EGT temp drops with the EGR installed and functioning. Other than the fuel/timing maps I'm not aware of any.

<Sigh> I give up. :3d_frown:

Made my "SST" by taking a short length of solid copper 14GA wire, stripping both ends, and pounding flat with a hammer. Filed the sides to fit the diag block connectors...works great and is much better than a paperclip.

That's why the Toyota gasket is a MLS type ;) Aftermarket gaskets for the head/manifold will do the same thing.

Used a Crane coil in this thread...looks pretty simple to do: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65436 BTW - Thread moved to the NA engine section.

I edited this to make it easier to read ;) A couple comments: - That "thingy majiggy that has no purpose" is a cross brace that will catch your driveshaft if a u-joint breaks. This is very critical if you go single piece like this. It's even better to install a safety loop. - When you...

Not sure how much more direct I can be, but again (per post #4)...yes. There is no speculation about this man...the catch can needs the vac from the TB to work correctly. Like I said before, fix it and I'll delete the other posts.

Yes

RazoE - Read the Motor Oil 101 link in my sig and read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38811 If you're thinking that the 0W makes the oil "thin", that is completely incorrect...especially in the case of GC. The 0W is the cold viscosity of the oil; the ability of it...

Any quality 3/8" coolant rated hose will work fine....

High oil pressure does not "wash the bearings"...you do need to find the cause. My bet is the oil pump relief valve (like I said).

Maybe so, but there's a point where just kidding around comes across as BS. A fully counter weighted crank helps to dampen harmonics...otherwise, it's balance not weight that has the biggest impact. Also, it's the rubber in the crank dampner (not weight) that makes it effective...case in...

5W-20 is a bit thin, but it won't make your pressure shoot up like that. Sounds like the oil pump relief valve is stuck. The relief valve in the filter head should not cause this...a common mod is to eliminate the stock filter head and go to a full flow cooler circuit.

LOL..."knife edge" is a misnomer. What you are doing is removing weight and reducing oil windage. This has to be done by a machinist and then the crank has to be spin balanced...considering the weight of each rod/piston, flex plate or fly wheel, and dampner is the best way. Don't try this at...

Don't have a pic of mine yet Greg...here's one of IJ's though ;)

Above idle to ~4000 RPM...and the point is?