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I have a 15,000 BTU tranny cooler...plus insulation sealing the shifter hole ;)

Jag - you should get yourself one of these gizmo's ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38929

The hole in the side of the pan...M12x1.25

Properly prepped, the stock crank is pretty darn strong...Gary Curmi (mibrum) is putting out over 1000 HP on one. http://www.gtepowered.com/index.php?page=html/gcurmi/profile.php

I have none ;)

Adjuster has the earlier version of the studs installed...it's spec was 81 ft/lbs using moly -or- 105 ft/lbs using 30W motor oil. Want to guess which lube he used? ;) BTW - the current spec is 80 ft/lbs using moly and 120 ft/lbs using 30W motor oil. The reason for the...

I don't, the filters I use keeps the oil analytically clean...I change oil when the add pack/TBN is depleted. But, you can...just just the motor over with the EFI fuse pulled till you get a pressure indication to make sure it's filled before you run it.

Lmao!

Nope...the stack plate design is the best for both applications IMO. For oil, you want to get the biggest one you can fit. I'd swap over to a full flow, thermostat controlled cooling circuit too and get rid of the cooler relief valve in the stock filter head. A "How To" is posted in the...

BTW - Lose the zip tie around your spark plug wires and use proper wire seperator clips all the way to the rear cylinders. Make sure your battery is fully charged too ;)

With the cam gears and the crank on the index, the rotor should be pointing at the #1 wire. Ignore the dizzy gear index and turn the gear to make this happen when it slides in. FYI - the helical gear on the dizzy will turn as it is inserted.

Make sure the plug wires are in the correct order on the dizzy and are leading to the correct cylinders.

I don't think it's the cams. Check the #1 piston at TDC by removing the plug and placing a small wooden dowel (about a foot long) in the SP hole. Rotate the crank...if it moves up, you are not at TDC.

He sure did for...it was in the SME section. And, I agree, it's utter stupidity to even consider adjusting camber for the reasons stated.

You're over thinking it. Besides, with an accusump it doesn't matter anyway.

Looks like an empty metal bottle laying on it's side to me ;)

^^^ Way too thick for a stock oil system...especially in a Denmark winter ;)

According to the OP, I'm rude...I just want to turn everything into a debate with useless knowledge. Actually makes me wonder why I even post in threads like this. Like he said, he can figure it out for himself.

It's not...the syncro's need a certain amount of friction to operate properly. The friction modifiers present in Mobil 1 make it too "slippery" for proper engagement...whether you notice it or not (or how severe) is going to depend on the condition of the tranny.

If all else fails, you can order MT90 from Summit.