One of us is confused. Perhaps you can rephrase the question you're asking. Again, every CPS has the three coil commons tied together in the pigtail and brought out to the connector as one wire (signal common -G). As far as I know this is true across all model years.
Dunno. Doesn't look like the coolant sensor but are you sure it's connected? The sensor is behind the water neck on the engine side of the thermostat.
I ask because if the coolant temp sensor is open (code 22) the ECU defaults to thinking the engine is always hot. That means a cold start and...
Yes, ohm the coils if you can and then test the valve under power again like the book says. If it clicks but doesn't move either take it apart to find out why or buy another one. Me, I'd want to know why it clicks but doesn't move and I wouldn't let go until I knew.
Dunno what that connector...
Then it all comes down to testing it off the car. Just be sure you're testing per the book (it appears you are) and there's definitely no movement. Odd that it would click and not move though. If the motor is good electrically and the bearings are ok no movement should be repairable.
If no...
Putting a "tail" on the shaft or pintle magnifies its movement and allows you to see individual steps. Think about the hands on a clock.
Do the coils ohm out to spec? Sure it didn't get bound up during assembly? If it clicks it should step.
About this 1200 rpm thing. Are you unplugging...
Yea, my engine was losing fluids like crazy right off the dealer's lot before eventually stopping. Was even worse just after I rebuild it but then got better. I'm pretty sure they're supposed to do that :)
Not sure what you're getting at. Every CPS I've seen has the three coil grounds connected together prior to exiting the pigtail. Only one ground is brought out to the connector.
It'd be easier to weld even if you have to tow the car. And be careful when tightening NPT fittings because they're tapered. Don't run them in very far on thinwalled or soft material.
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