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Agreed. It's much more nicely done than what I saw before. Just reminded me of the other because of the copper.

It should hold vacuum. If it doesn't the diaphragm is ruptured.

Reminds me of the guy who plumbed his PCV system in copper. There's a pic on here somewhere. Thought I'd seen it all prior to that...

It's the same as cars. How far would a 500 hp Supra running flat out go? Not far but it'd make good time. 800 miles isn't much but neither is the 2 hours spent getting there.

^ Ha. As the thread progresses I'm beginning to understand why the wiring was such a hassle. I'd like to know exactly what wires he's talking about and how having them connected to a supposedly bad ground resulted in (per post # 6) "ecu getting power, tach is moving" but no spark. Considering...

That was my point. If the car is wired properly there's almost zero difference between block and manifold as ground. I say almost because, technically speaking, the block is actually the *better* ground. If that's not the case on your car there's going to be problems...

Putting aside for a moment how you "tripled checked" everything that doesn't make any electrical sense at all...

No, but there's been times I wish I was :) chunks: 700-800 miles but since the thing wasn't made for traveling it's rarely used for that...

Not enough info. Are you saying the injectors aren't firing or the engine just won't start? If you're measuring with the injectors plugged in both wires should have have 12 volts key on engine off. If they're unplugged only one wire will have it. The injector grounds (E01 and E02) are...

^ This. It'd be nice to know if the engine is running lean for example, a common cause of high NOx.

Just to clarify, the fuel pump will work as long as the key is in the start position. The CPS doesn't even need to be in the car for that to happen...

Check that the CEL comes on (confirms power to ECU). Check that the tach flickers when the engine is cranking (confirms CPS, ECU, and igniter working). Check that the coil packs have 12 volts (confirms FL AM2 and Ign switch are good) Check that the igniter body is bolted to the...

When I was 16 it was 25 cents. Took 16 more years to break one buck. And you're breaking my heart about the Yukon. The plane costs $2k to fill and that's without using the drop tanks...

Ok, you had me wondering there for a bit. Probably best to replace it then. Might even want to get the belts done too. Might as well take it apart first though. Nothing to lose :)

The CPS uses reluctors. Makes its own signal. No power required.

This ought to be good...

Maybe it's just me but common sense would seem to suggest going in there for a look-see at what the problem is and what might be done to resolve it. You'll have to do that anyway if it needs replacing. Or were you thinking it'll fix itself?

No raised hand here but gas was 90 cents/gal when I bought my car...

Pffftt, a real MKIII owner would have swapped out the box, dash, battery, all the fuses, and the complete harness. Several times :icon_razz

The complete number is 2SD571. Made by NEC and readily available. Several xrefs also exist for it: http://tinyurl.com/3jjfw8q That said since it's used in a switching application just about any NPN with similar characteristics will work....