Search results

You'll be happy to know there's nothing wrong with it...

Does the MIL come on? Is there 12 volts on +B in the diag connector?

If the tach is flickering the ECU has power, something that would seem to invalidate much of what you wrote later on in the post. ECU power is also easily verified by the MIL coming on with the key. Based on what you've written and ignoring the stuff that doesn't jive it sounds like there's...

Tough crowd. Off topic but wasn't Earthworm Jim from Turlock?

You be seriously confused. With the engine idling the entire intake manifold is under vacuum. It has to be or the engine wouldn't run. Furthermore the short hose (big bolt) in the top photo of post 11 is the main vacuum source for most things on the engine, Also, the BOV hose is not ported.

Probably because we'd like to help him but he's not making it easy. And he really needs to RTFM, something he appears very resistant to doing...

Since the manuals claim its done with timing and also support everything else you've found it should be in there. You can see and hear cross counting when off idle but not when on and as you know count rate is much slower at idle. I use it as a quick and dirty method of checking the O2 sensor...

Why? One has nothing to do with the other...

Especially Pennzoil...

Jon, do you see where idle stabilization is done via timing to correct for O2 cross counting?

^ I'm curious. Are you dragging up all these old threads because you're bored or is there another reason?

From a technical perspective jumpering the diag block isn't enough. The IDL contact must also be closed.

Nope, not gonna fix it. Why would it?

I was going by the above. If it's still doing that try what I said. Not gonna help your code 34 though. That's likely a boost leak.

I'm sure someone will point it out...

Jumper B+ to FP in the diag block and see if the problem goes away...

^ That made even me smile. Now my face is gonna be sore for a week...

Pirate air is any that enters the engine without being measured by the air flow meter. Such air is not accounted for by the ECU when computing engine load. Also known as false air and unmetered air. Valve cover gaskets, the oil pan gasket, and the dipstick tube are often overlooked sources of...

That'd work although I wouldn't go the full 10K unless the engine is in good shape and that run is mostly highway miles. Truth is any decent Group 3 and all Group 4 will do the job. The first thing you need to learn about oil is to stop fussing so much over it...

Not your specialty. Huh. So lets see if I've got this straight: After rewiring the car you screw it up, come here looking for a solution, then refute the advice offered by saying you've triple checked everything as if you completely understood the wiring you did and were unable to accept the...