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I'm not saying it is but the ECU will not operate with the reference shorted. Does the MIL come on with the key? If so and there's still no Vc and you're sure it's not connected to anything the ECU is bad. I find that hard to believe though. Wrong section btw...

As I suspected. Glad I found out before trying to help you...

If you used a small test light this might come back to haunt you. It does not draw enough current to verify the circuit path.

I'm confused. Since the starter circuit is simple and can easily be troubleshot using a meter or test light why screw around trying all this other stuff? Also, and you may not care about this, but jumping the NSW will render the cruise control system inoperative...

So your hazard switch light, defogger switch light, climate control panel lights, cig lighter light, glove box light, dash lights, radio illumination, and marker lights also don't work?

1) No boost without load. 2) The pump has an inlet sock. 3) The engine would have to stop for the fuel pump to be shut down. 4) Fuel delivery can be quickly checked by doing a snap throttle test while monitoring fuel pressure with the regulator hose off. Alternately you can...

^ You are correct. Just pull the EFI fuse...

No way that info would be on the ARP website. It's just not possible... http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_instructions.php

Not only is this incorrect but it makes no sense for the reason already mentioned.

Got it. I thought the power up thing caused a 24 based on a past discussion with another member who was trying to resolve it. My bad. Not sure what the problem could be but fwiw the mixture on a stock system with the sensor unplugged should go to about .9 lambda. Slightly rich. Every Supra...

From reading other threads I thought code 24 is normal with a Maft Pro but 41 is not. I may be wrong though.

Well yea, both blacks are the heater but one is 12 volts while the oher is ground supplied by the ECU. If both were 12 volts no current would flow and the thing wouldn't work...

Gotta cover my ass ;) It is my opinion BG in general makes quality products. I won't claim this particular one is applicable to the situation but from what I've heard it's a good cleaner. It certainly won't hurt anything. That said, even though BG stuff is stronger than run-of-the-mill auto...

There ya have it. In the article they used the carbon key to fill what was still serviceable of the way and keep the shape while they welded around it but there's no reason the other approach couldn't be used. May even have to be done if things are badly chewed up.

Reading that gave me a headache but if the thing doesn't pass TSRM muster it should be replaced. I still doubt it's behind the HC though. If you want to know for sure and after you're done checking everything get a pre test done with the EVAP system disconnected. Any smog station will do that...

I'll try and find my copy but since it's been a while I can't make any promises. The process is what was stated though. Fabricate carbon key, filler added, finish to fit, replace key with new, install dampener Well, they did it and as an weldor myself I don't see any real obstacles. The...

Don't do that. A recent issue of Machinist's Magazine detailed this exact repair. It was even a Toyota. The repair involved welding (something others have done) by fabricating a carbon key, adding filler metal, and finishing to fit. The results were excellent.

That all sounds normal to me. The canister is unlikely to be the cause of excessive HC unless a fair amount of liquid fuel got into it. In that case desorption involves pumping on it while heated (like what the engine does but stronger), putting the thing in a vacuum oven, or extended purging...

Ah well, live and learn. At least you got it changed.

Never done this one but on stubborn lip seals I drill a couple of small holes in the housing opposite each other, screw in self tappers, and pull the thing out.