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Tapping that line would be far more difficult and the sensor would be a PITA to get to if ever need be. Personally, I wouldn't do it...the risk of a leak is far too great and really bad if it happens. The BVSV location is not bad...if you remove the jiggle valve on the stat like I suggested...

You could play the loosen NA stud game and spin till it is...that what I did, and the ports are parallel to the ground, Or you could use this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TRD%2D1413&N=700+400158+115&autoview=sku I wouldn't use a hard 90 fitting like...

The only issue you *may have* is with the block adapter inteferring with the turbo/IC pipes. I have the same one you do and it's fine...a few guys have had to go with a side port block adapter though.

You've been paying attention ;) Another excellent choice...that filter will go 15K easy on ATF.

Excellent cooler. The -6 lines will just restrict flow to the cooler a bit...I have a tendency to go oversize though ;) Did I see a filter head in the other thread for ATF in your cooler circuit? What filter?

What tranny cooler are you installing? -8 lines are a better choice in terms of flow to the cooler (assuming it's got 1/2" NPT inlet/outlets). -6 lines will work...the ATF circuit is bypass system, so no fluid restriction issues to the tranny.

You could always put a sensor fitting adapter in the coolant feed line to the turbo...the line on top of the water neck. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838

They speak the truth about the AN side of the fitting ;) I prefer teflon paste, but have used tape on oil fittings like you have with no issues. NPT fittings (tapered...seal on the threads) should seal without either, but it doesn't hurt to use a sealer. Metric fittings are straight...

^^^ That's 3 times ;) It's 14mm...Per IJ above, I called ARP.

No worries...I've made dumber mistakes than that ;) The tranny lines are M16x1.5. You want to use a thread sealer (teflon paste will do) on the metric side if you're going to AN adapters on these.

From a combustion perspective, exhaust gas is pretty inert ;)

On a filter mount (single or dual) that has dual ports, you only use two...either end, but not both. You need to decide which end is the best for routing the lines, then plug the other side...the plugs should have been included with the mount.

Don't have a pic...the port is forward of the stock oil pressure sensor and aft of the water pump. Just follow the oil channel that runs the length of the block forward, when you run into the plug fitting per above, that's it. Or, if you do go to the cooler circuit I suggested, a T fitting...

Coolant temp in the BVSB location will not be accurate until the t-stat opens up. If you remove the jiggle valve on the t-stat, you will get a faster reading. The ECU temp sensor is on the water neck...yes, you need it. The plugged port behind the water pump is in the main oil channel...

Learn something new every day ;)

One bump in a 24 hour period. If the CEL illuminates with the engine running, it indicates a code. Might want to pull them again. Sounds like you have a massive IC piping leak or your AFM, connector, or the wiring is the problem. Did you happen to clean the AFM recently? Are you getting...

No I haven't, but the stock bolt is: - 1.20" length under the head - The stock banjo fitting is 0.475" thick - The threads on the stock bolt are M12x1.25 It looks like it just might work ;)

You need two sets (24 springs)...they will work great with stock turbo cams. PM Suprarich, pretty sure his price is a bit better than Jeg's.

You guys really can't do any better than that...innuendo, sarcasm, the "duck & cover", that's it. No facts...just belief. BTW - mechanics are some of the world's worse when it comes to belief. If you press for an answer why, they will come up with some conjecture like the "EGR cooler...

I'm still thinking a trip to Dover. It would be a spectacular video with the White Cliffs in the background :evil2: