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Did you do a re-torque on the head bolts at anytime after the HG replacement?

Pretty close here (27 psi vac on). Mid 10's on the AFR at WOT. FP with the Lex/550 combo is a "global" correction. To get a true tune, you'll need an AFSC or similar.

Pretty sure they are the ball/seat type. Reaction speed wise, between the disc and the pintle. Probably a better choice for those running a stock ECU actually. Anthony - I appreciate your efforts...even though there's a few "wanna be" types that got in on this. Don't let them jade your...

:: IJ. :: I prefer "Old Fart".

It's not the cylinder that feeds it that's the issue. When the EGR valve opens (above idle to ~4000 RPM) the gas from the #6 cylinder (that would have been flowed out the manifold anyway) is sent to the intake plenum. The outlet is just below the TB flange on the inside where the exhaust gas...

Yeah...I think you might be right JJ. I'm off to have a "chat" with a bright young man about his future in the USAF ;)

Ok...this is getting frustrating...How many times to I have to say this? Is there a problem with my English? Based on your 1000 RPM idle speed, if the adjustment screw is open, it's probably the reason or part of the reason why. Jeez man...how can you expect a guy to help you if you're...

Disconnecting the battery will do it. The 7M ECU does "learn" during driving, but it should have no effect on the idle issue. Also make sure there are no leaks/cracks on the two rubber hoses from the accordian to the ISCV. Confirm the powersteering vac line is connected to the nipple on the...

Ok...here's what I understand so far: 1) No codes 2) Known good ISCV 3) Engine dies when PCV and ISCV hosed are blocked off (i.e. no more pirate air) 4) The EGR Valve is stuck open due to carbon build-up Even a Master Tech can be wrong if he doesn't have the right info...what I said only...

Look...I realize that 20 year old's are all knowing. Been there, done that...I'm going to say this one more time: I don't see how it can be more clear than that...once you got rid of the vac leaks, the ECU had to re-learn idle. That's why: It takes time...an ECU re-set will help...

Especially when it has zero effect on the engine, except to improve gas mileage ;)

Code 51 will not illuminate the CEL ;)

Easier and cheaper to install an EGR ;) Why don't you tell him why you need a JDM ECU?

LMAO...::dead horse::

The idle adjust screw I'm referring to is on top of the TB...regardless of what your Tech friend says (if he's even talking about this screw), it should be fully closed on the 7M. It specifically says so in the TCCS book I have. The dashpot screw is a different story...it is not an idle...

Mine does...it's not pretty though ;)

I would keep the EGR if I were you...the ECU is tuned for it. Without it you risk detonation under part throttle load conditions. The EGR will not cause high idle, but will cause idle to be rough or drop and almost die (if it's stuck open) like you saw. You will still need a VTV for the...

The 7M doesn't have a MAS, it's an AFM...unplugging it will do the same thing, just worse ;) It doesn't use the O2 sensor that way.

Sounds like a boost leak...one of your IC pipes split or came loose at the connector.

LOL...Castrol, Exxon, Shell, all of em...their marketing is evil I tell ya ;)