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Just a figure of speech, hence the quotes around "dry start" in my post above. ;) Modern oils and a good filter (#1 reason I like Wix...the anti-drainback valve is excellent) will provide enough lube to keep engine bearings on track. But, an electric valve is easy to install and will not...

You can also use an electric vs a manual valve on the Accusump that actuates (via a relay) when the ignition is on. This will allow you to use it as a pre-oiler...turn ignition on, wait 5-10 sec (oil is pushed into the engine), and start. No more "dry start" ;)

The dashpot should be touching...here's the TSRM link on how to test it: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&P=8 You need the VTV before you can do anything with the dashpot ;) Did you block off the PCV and ISCV like I told you?

There's no point to your "mod"...the stock turbo feed port is in the channel that feeds the bearing and squirters. It is post filter (and cooler) as well, when the stock cooler system is switched to a full flow remote set up. Don't fix something that's not broke.

Here's the instructions: http://www.racecarnewmedia.co.uk/hks/pdf/twinpower/Twin%20power%20dli%20type.pdf

LMAO...Ian, you're a sick man ;)

Amazing how titles do that :rolleyes: And it's getting attention as a result...a descriptive title does wonders ;)

Read this thread...note his oil pressure in the 1st post. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78456 Then take a look at what the cause was later in the thread ;)

This kind of comment does not cut it in the Tech Section...if you don't know for sure, do not post. Neither the squirters or the bolts are aluminum. A magnet will be of limited use, unless it's a socket insert.

LOL...Not an expert by any means, but I do know how some guys seem to make it 10X harder on themself. Of course, that guy takes the heat off the ones keeping a low profile. ;) As far as the wife goes...I'm still in training. She did get me house broken though :)

Ok...whatever you say. I guess 1 out of 3 isn't bad, regardless of how unlikely it is :3d_frown: My bad...I misread VTV to mean VSV. The VTV can affect idle...you need to replace it. What I'm trying to get you to do is narrow down the problem area, that's why I told you to block off...

The dashpot does not have a VSV...there are two. One for the hot start ilde up function (leads to the FPR) and one for the EGR. The EGR VSV has no effect at idle...the other does though. If it's busted, just splice the vac lines together till you can get another.

He swapped the ISCV (post #8)...he has no codes (post #10). "I don't think" doesn't cut it in the Tech Section...if you don't know, don't post. The only way a BOV can cause this is if the vac line routed to it leaks.

Yep...the ASVAB is the key ;) Of course, the needs of the AF (or any other service) is top priority, regardless of what you want. LOL...marriage is a good intro! Here's a few things not to do talking to the DI, especially for those socially conscience types: "I really don't want to do...

Do this before you vector off on tangents: Disconnect the PCV hose at the TB and ISCV hose at the valve, start the car, cap both off...the motor should die. If it doesn't, you have a pirate air leak somewhere. This is good info: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=850

The cig lighter light is wired to the stock dimmer...that will not do what you want. However, the wire powering the lighter itself will.

The BOV does not "blow boost back into the turbo"...if stuck closed, you will build boost and experience compressor surge when you let off...if stuck open, it is a boost leak. And the way the OP described it, it's not the gauge either. I'm leaning to some sort of boost leak...if there's a...

LOL...you have to get through Basic 1st. For every job, there's a skill level...you need to test well to get the job you want. And, perform well at Basic to demonstrate you have what it takes. There's a key phrase at Basic that goes something like this: "Yes Drill Sargent"

It's great you guys have gauges that work with the stock dimmer wiring, but you are missing the point: Aftermarket gauges bright = Stock gauges dim Stock gauges bright = Aftermarket gauges dim That is where I got my ID of the problem. The only way a comparison is valid is if the gauges...

Perhaps I should have said "most aftermarket gauges to +12 volts" ;) In any case, the ones he has are doing exactly what I said...this problem has been around for a long time.