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Teal - you're new here so I'm going to be nice...you really need to take a look at this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66924 The guy you're talking to *might* just know a little about what he's talking about...especially when it comes to tuning ;) Your comments are a...

Poodles - it wouldn't hurt to try it. ;) 7M - I would check the TPS for a smooth, linear VTA output from 0-5 volts moving the throttle from closed to WOT. The ignition has to be on to test this with a multimeter...you want to be a smooth as possible. The SAFC could also be the...

Scott - the only way to be sure you are at TDC is to check the #1 piston is all the way up. If you don't and the damper is FUBAR, you will have all sort of timing problems. The damper pointing at zero is not a positive indication the piston is at DTC.

Me too...inquiring minds need to know ;)

Believe me now? :slap: Glad you did it...a re-do on a HG job sucks ;)

Nope...line up the damper and cam pulleys 1st. Make sure you are at TDC like Ian said with the damper pointed at zero. This is the wooden dowel trick (Ian uses a chopstick)...put a long one in the #1 spark plug hole and rotate the damper noting where the dowel "tops out". There will be a bit...

Scott - Once you have the cam timing sorted per what Facime posted, make sure the CPS looks like this installed: Remember the CPS engages a helical gear...it will turn as it's inserted.

LOL...just making sure Jay ;) (had me thinking I was experiencing a senior moment) I'm with Ian...running out of things to check. If you do change the cam timing, don't go as far as above. Give E+2/I-1 a try and see if it makes a difference...you can check the cam pulley bolts too...

I wouldn't use Toyota filters, even if they were free...at least the ones in the US ;) Denso Japan, different story.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=976492&postcount=672 ;)

If I remember correctly, on the previous build you had the cams at E+8/I-4. The valve centers are pretty wide here (not much overlap) and would run the cylinder compression up quite high. I was thinking that combined with your previous timing map is what made you go lean. On this issue, I'm...

It would have to be a pretty big vac line to cause boost cut on a stock motor. Most issues you see with vac leaks are at idle. A leak in the IC piping...different story. Or, a WG issue like Poodles suggested.

Ahhh...the TEWD shows the off temp from page AC-33. I didn't figure you pulled the numbers out of your arse...the temp specs from AC-33 are what's used to actually test the switches. Thought I might as well post the aux fan temps too ;) For where you live (South FL), the 180 stat would...

LOL :yelrotflm Ya THINK so Ian ;)

At least you didn't have to drop the tank!

Pretty sure he does Ian...if you remember, the previous motor blew due to agressive cam timing. I asked this earlier, but never got a complete answer: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1117303&postcount=45

I'm still not too confident in that WG spring.

The condenser fan is controlled by water temp sensor #3 and functions at 203 deg F The aux fan(s) are controlled by water temp sensor #2 and function at 225 deg F http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AC&P=33 Both switches are on the thermo housing. The Toyota stat...

I have a CSF rad...it and the shroud fits perfect.