LOL...this is as old as I am ;)
The Supra dash lights are dimmed to "0" and the aftermarket gauges are dimmed to +12 volts...that means you have to vary voltage to the aftermarket gauges to get them to dim. If you wire them straight to 12 volts, they will not dim...if that's what you want...
The thing is, opening the screw on the TB doesn't work...the ISCV simply closes down more. What's happening is you are taking idle control away from the ECU...it still tries to regain control and you end up with all kind of weirdness. What's what the idle adjustment screw was removed on later...
Yeah...Jake's going through a tough time right now. There won't be any updates to this thread for a while.
It would be best just to let it be (and leave it at that).
LOL...Cheap, Fast, Reliable...you get to pick two ;)
Watch out for the Walbros on eBay...a lot are Chinese copies.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61686
Is this the thread?
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838
Tells you how to set up a full flow circuit pretty well.
5-7mm applies to the oil pump relief valve...the cooler relief is different. You want just enough to get your pressure to 40-45 psi at 3000 RPM. Shim too...
Before you start drilling/tapping...confirm the silver fitting is a M12x1.25. That is the thread for the fuel rail.
The others that screw into the AFPR should be NPT threads (1/4" NPT irrc..check this too).
The 2 fittings on the AFPR, they came were included with it...correct?
The DriftMotion kit was made for the Aeromotive FPR...it has a additional port on the side vs the one you have. Pretty sure the straight silver fitting is for the fuel rail...the gold 90 deg fitting was meant to attach to...
I had one (actually several) stick shut at random on 1st start in the morning. I'd get 3-4 miles down the road and the temp gauge would shoot up. Whacked the stat housing with a plastic hammer and it unstuck.
I suspect my issue was removal of the stock turbo coolant lines...the natural...
Fitting a bigger cooler is fine if you can. Unless you're doing continuous high speed engine runs for extended times, a bigger cooler is not necessary. What is important is the cooler gets good air flow.
It's not the new turbo oil line. It may be something else you did while installing it though.
The oil cooler relief valve can cause this. You can shim the valve with a few washers and see. A better option is to remove the stock filter head and switch to a full flow, thermostat controlled...
The slackers need to pony up!
I damn sure want my injectors...you guys (not naming names....yet) need to sending some PayPal cash like yesterday!
(especially since all of you have logged on in the last 24 hours)
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