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Warm idle on a 7M-GTE is 650 RPM A/C on (at ops temp), it should increase to 900 RPM in neutral on a manual tranny. On cold start, I see 1200 RPM...drops quickly to ~1000 RPM. At ops temp, I have 650 RPM per spec. Look at this thread on MKIII Tech...

You've got to be kidding me...this thread :thumbsdow Closed.

Couple things wrong with this thread: There's a sticky in the General Section covering it all...search (or just pay attention) next time. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56843 This thread is in the wrong section...belongs in General...moved. Considering both of the...

That is one hell of a sentence...between no punctuation and the spelling, it gave me a headache.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a OEM HG. Torqued properly, it will provide excellent service as long as you don't go boost crazy.

You're right...I don't know anything about the TCCS: (You think I just pull stuff out of my arse?) Speaking of FFIMs, I wonder why I would go through the time/effort/expense of an EGR provision on my FFIM...and that's using an AEM EMS: Not only does the EGR help prevent part...

Teal - the JDM ECU has no EGR provision...it is tuned for it's absence (timing and fuel). Any ECU from a country without an EGR is the same. It's simple...all that "crap" is required for the engine to run correctly. There is no way someone that knows what they are doing is going to write...

Couldn't find anything? That's funny considering there's a whole section/forum on it: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Filtration And, if you post this same question in my section without doing some reading 1st, I'll just delete it ;)

Bottom pic: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=8

1) The EGR is used to control part throttle detonation (under load) on the 7M. 2) The USDM ECU is tuned for it being there. 3) The EGR is inop at idle and above ~4000 RPM...removing it will have no effect on top HP produced. It does not "rob power". 4) Removing it is a foolish thing to...

No...the MAFT Pro is a piggyback computer. You are still using the stock ECU. This is looking like a "clean up the engine bay thread"...the ones that always result in a host of self induced problems.

Ummm...No. Unless you have a reading disability, the discussion was not focused on the emissions aspect of the EGR.

NEVER use a torque wrench to break a bolt free ;)

It could be the 190 stat you used was bad...that's why I test a stat (even a new one) before I install it. A 175 stat is a bit low...I'd use a 185 or 190 stat. The addition of coolant is not going to drop temps, but will increase the boil point.

And a VERY accurate term too ;) In support of what I (and others, besides BlackDevil) said above, Toyota used more than one scheme to prevent detonation: This Toyota Tech Article discusses timing corrections. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf Page 22...middle: Page 24...top...

There won't be any concession because you are wrong...simple as that. Your "contribution" is the usual "this is how I think it works" BS you see here way too often. Care to explain what happens when extra air takes the place of inert exhaust gas during combustion when the ECU is metering a...

I was thinking perhaps it's piston slap, not likely with stock pistons unless the piston-to-wall clearance was opened up quite a bit. I'd check valve clearances, especially if you are taking the machine shop's word on the spec. I would check the cam caps and journal clearance too...there's a...

Is this on a rebuilt motor? (i.e. rebuilt head and pistons..if so, what kind of pistons?)

How about looking in the TRSM and adjust to spec?

Fallacy? Perhaps more ignorance on you part ;) The knock sensors retard timing when they sense a 7 MHz signal...a very specific, narrow range. That does not happen under all knock conditions (i.e. part throttle, heavy load). The EGR's primary function is to reduce Nox emissions, but it...