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The simple stuff seems to be biting you Jag...glad you found it. How did the drive go? Next...get your timing on the money ;)

Plug the PCV port on the TB.

There's a rubber "donut" gasket that fits around the thermostat itself. Get a new one.

No, routing the PCV just to the accordion will not damage it. But, it will route any oil vapor straight to your IC where it will condense.

The PCV need vac from the TB. When you're looking for a leak like this all the parts need to be in place (i.e. IC piping). You don't want to induce a vaiable that's not there during normal ops. You can test the ISCV...failure is not common on these. Did you take it apart and clean the...

Before you look at the screw, how did it idle with this TB before the rebuild? There's a vac lne that runs from the bottom of the metal "tree", to a fitting on the head, to the fitting on the front hardline on the 3000 pipe. Is it connected correctly. (iirc it's the one to the BOV)...

Ok...which line is the vac coming from in this pic and check the routing:

Now that you have it apart...clean the PCV with carb cleaner. Then blow it out. Check for air flow to the opening at the flange. (won't be much, there's a orifice in the PCV channel)

How about from the hose that attaches to the fittings? Block them off and see what happens. The PCV routes to the back side of the TB, just below the flange. There is no way it could pull vac on the small hole in the throat of the TB. The PCV fitting could still be clogged, but it can not...

That hole is what supplies vac to the EGR, not the PCV...check your lines to the EGR VSV and VSV itself. There should be no vac on that line (or hole) with the TB plate closed. I suspect you have the small 90 deg fitting on top of the TB that connects to that hole misrouted.

Are you talking about the PCV port on the TB? (the hole in the top of the TB) You're not going to be able to set timing with an idle that high.

I think there's a blown motor in your immediate future ;)

That's just it...you're not helping. There's only a couple places coolant can come from in that area. Seriously, you need to read the ENTIRE thread before you offer advice.

Get a new tire yet Jay? ;)

Removing the jiggle valve allows a small flow at all times. It helps prevent a pressure build-up behind the stat that can hold it closed and helps to rid the system of air faster. That fitting on the bottom of the water neck attaches to the hardline that surrounds the block. There is a...

Kinda hard to tell, but that looks like the CSI time switch connector to me...could be for the ECU temp sensor. The connectors look a lot alike. The CSI time switch is on top. The ECU temp sensor is on the side...you can see it in the pic and it looks like it has a green connector already on it.

Sonic cleaning is better...if you hot tank, you will have to replace the oil shaft bearings.

Reading post #1 made my head hurt :3d_frown:

So you didn't even try...that's a pretty lame reason :3d_frown: There's two plugs...a drain and fill. Suggest you remove the fill plug 1st.

My opinion is in Post #3: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70983&highlight=gear+oil BTW - Search is your friend...I found this old thread in under 30 sec. This subject has been beat to death ;)